Saturday 2 September 2017

TRAVEL: Dubai, United Arab Emirates - heat, hotels and high prices

Arriving into Dubai at 8:30am, you might think that the early morning would offer a respite from the high temperatures the country is notorious for. You'd be wrong - leaving the airport, I found the temperature relatively pleasant, before realising that I was still standing under an air-conditioned archway. One step forward, and I was in 40'C heat. Nice. 

We were met on arrival at the airport by a driver from the hotel we were spending the night at, the Jumeriah Dar al Masyaf, who, after offering us cool towels and bottled water, drove us through the city pointing out various buildings along the way. Being one of the most modern cities in the world, Dubai has some stunning modern architecture, as evidenced by the plethora of skyscrapers that lined the highway. Along the way, we passed the current tallest building in the world, the Burj Khalifa; and perhaps Dubai's most iconic building, the Burj al Arab.

Before long, we drove up a driveway lined with golden horse sculptures to the front of our hotel, where we were quickly escorted to our 'villa' on an abra, a canopied boat which took us along the canals that make up the Dar al Masyaf complex. Inside, the villas butler checked us in and brought us to our suite for the night, an Arabian style series of rooms with balconies overlooking the canal. 
After a quick rest, we took an abra to the Souk included within the hotel complex, which is reminiscent of ancient Arabian markets (although I'm sure with much higher prices!) We bought tickets for the Big Bus Tour which, with an Entertainer pass which you can buy off eBay for $5, you can get a buy one get one free deal, although I'm sure we were still ripped off for the tickets, but that's Dubai for you. Once on the bus, we began our way around the Beach route, which took us onto the Palm Jumeira island, and past the famous Atlantis hotel. From the ground, you can't really get the feel that the island is in fact in the shape of a palm tree, so perhaps a helicopter tour would be better! 

One of the hop on hop off stops was the Mall of Emirates, which is where we changed onto the Marina route, which took us more into the centre of Dubai, passing mosques, many many skyscrapers, and the Burj Khalifa. Unfortunately, the commentary on the tour was fleeting so I wouldn't say we learnt too much about the buildings themselves, but at least they were pointed out. 
After completing the Marina tour, we aimed to swap back to the Beach tour, but were made wait 30 minutes at the changeover point, which wasn't ideal given our limited time in the city. Eventually, we were on the road again, and drove past some of the public beaches before being dropped off again at the Souk. Although not the best tour, it was probably the best way we could've spent the day - out of the heat and getting to see the most of Dubai. Having not slept for about 40 hours and feeling like a member of the Walking Dead, once back I headed back to our villa for a much needed rest. 
That evening, we headed down to the reception area of our villa for welcome drinks, before taking an abra to one of the Dar al Masyaf's 40 restaurants. Wanting something a bit different to home, we chose the Lebanese restaurant, and it was pleasant to leave the blistering evening heat and enter the air-conditioned bliss. Being on half-board, we were entitled to a three course meal, although I found it difficult to eat in the heat! I started with cheese spring rolls and falafel followed by moussaka, and finishing with an almost savoury dessert made with vermicelli noodles. The food felt authentic and it was good to have had the choice of so many restaurants. Be careful though, whilst being on half board means the food is included, restaurants make their money through beverages - we had only two bottles of water which cost more than I'd care to admit...

The following morning, we headed over to the other side of the hotel for breakfast at the Palmery. Travelling by boat as your primary means of transport, even over walking, is an odd experience, particularly in the setting of the Dar al Masyaf, whose buildings look like something out of a movie set. I felt as if I were on some kind of It's A Small World theme park ride as we drifted past stone villas that would look so out of place anywhere else. The Palmery offered a buffet selection of Arabian, Chinese and American style cuisine, even including an ice cream stand if that took your fancy. I particularly enjoyed the Honey Station, where they had honeycomb strung up from which fresh honey dripped down into pots for you to enjoy.
The sky was clearer than the previous day, which also meant that the sun was more intense, so even a short walk over to the Turtle Rehabilitation pond (via a quick photo shoot in front of the Burj al Arab - this is where you can get the best photos) was a struggle. I adore wildlife, so watching the injured turtles swim below our feet was a special experience, although the heat meant we only stayed a short while! Then it was an abra ride to the Souk to pick out a snow globe before heading back to the villa to check out, which you can do with your butler without going to reception which was handy.
The stars aligned, and our second night was to be spend at the world's only 7 star hotel, the Burj al Arab, without a doubt the most exclusive hotel I have, and will, ever stay in. Although not far from our original hotel, Jumeriah had organised a car to transport us, complete with chilled towels and water for our 5 minute journey. Even heading up the driveway to the entrance of the Burj is an experience in itself. 
Once inside, we were met at the door by an attendant who took us up to the 7th floor and showed us to our suite. I felt very much as if I were seeing how the other half live - our two bedroom suite is without a doubt much larger than our entire house back in the UK. In fact, it's such a ridiculous size that we found ourselves playing Marco Polo just to find each other in the suite, and I have no doubt that the Burj has permanent residents who live like this all year round. The suites ground floor, or living area, has a business suite, living room and lounge area; and upstairs holds a twin and master bedroom both with their own ensuites. Perhaps most exciting is the toiletries contained in each bathroom - full size Hermes bottles - again something I wouldn't dream of buying myself at home. Another highlight is the view, as each room in the suite has floor to ceiling windows; a real highlight as you watch the sun go down. This is a life of luxury. 
When staying at the Burj, there's really no reason to leave, so we decided to check out all the hotel has to offer, heading up to the 18th floor to explore the spa, gym and swimming pools, which honestly must have one of the best views in the world. What's even better is that they were deserted, and even if one had had people swimming in it, there's also a ladies only pool which is more likely to be free. The 28th floor offered great views of the city, and from this height you were able to get a better idea of the shape of the Palm Jumeira. A panoramic elevator then brought us swiftly down to the ground floor, and we walked out to the infinity pool before the heat got too much. Why anyone would choose to swim outside when you have the upper pools with better views, and more importantly, shade and air conditioning is beyond me! 
We'd also organised a tour of the hotel's restaurants, as advertised in the brochure, so were shown around a variety of eating establishments, each offering different types of cuisine. What was particularly enjoyable was how different the design of each of the restaurants and their entrances were - you'd step out of the elevator and feel like you were in a different hotel from the one you'd been in on the floor below. 

We headed back to the room to enjoy a full size chocolate cake which had been delivered to the room for my parents anniversary (along with a beautiful bouquet of roses) If you ever head to the Burj, plan it for a special occasion as you're well looked after - although you're well looked after anyway, as we were interrupted mid-cake by the floor Butler bringing afternoon snacks. 

At 7pm, we headed down to the ground floor restaurant Sahn Eddar. I thought this would be where we would be having dinner, but we were in for a treat - a 5 course culinary flight, with each course served in a different restaurant. The pre-starter was served in Sahn Eddar, a modern international lounge restaurant. Our first starter was then downstairs in Nathan Outlaw at Al Mahara, the restaurant I was most excited for, as it contains a huge aquarium in the centre of the restaurant, around which the tables are arranged. I could easily have passed hours staring at the stunning tropical fish swimming by - an absolutely brilliant experience. The second starter was served in the hotel's Asian restaurant Junsui, before moving on for the main course at Al Muntaha on the 27th floor, with beautiful views over the Palm Jumiera. We walked round to the other side of the building for dessert and cocktails at the Skyview Bar, which offered views of the Burj Khalifa off in the distance. We were then surprised with another chocolate cake and flowers for my parents anniversary - I told you they look after you well! The food for each course was utterly excellent, and a fantastic way to try the best of what the Burj has to offer.
By the time we were finished dinner, it was after midnight, so we stepped outside to admire the Burj lit up at night. Despite being the middle of the night, it was still 35'C outside! It was then back to our suite where they had made our beds, complete with single stem roses, bottles of cuticle cream, and pillows we had previously ordered from the dedicated 'Pillow Menu'. A recipe for a good nights sleep.
The following morning, breakfast was at the ground floor restaurant. Whilst the previous day had had ice cream, this had a chocolate fountain. Needless to say you wouldn't be going hungry. After checking out, we moved down to a Royal Cabana next to the infinity pool. I pulled one of the sunbeds inside the cabana (better that than sit out in the 44'C heat) and spent the rest of the day relaxing. 
Our last Dubai experience was visiting the Talise Spa on the 18th floor for a Wellbeing massage - 55 minutes of top quality relaxation. I also doubt the view can be beat by any spas elsewhere in the world, as from my room you could gaze across the Arabian Sea. After finishing the day waiting in vain for the dancing fountains we had been told would occur in the Burj lobby, we were picked up and taken to the airport to say our finals goodbyes to this city of glitz and glamour.

My recommendations for Dubai: if shopping and sunbathing aren't your thing, I wouldn't pick Dubai as the main destination for your holiday. 2 days was just long enough for us to see the city and get in enough relaxation, but I think any more and we'd have been bored. Plan mainly indoor activities, as the heat really is too much - 10 minutes cumulative in the sun was enough for me! Finally, embrace the luxury. Everything is over the top in a Vegas like manner, but that's part of the charm. It's like Marmite: you love it or hate it. I felt a little bit of both.

Did you enjoy this blog? Make sure to follow me on Twitter @CiarasCountry - there's lots more blogs like this coming soon! Also be sure to let me know in the comments what you enjoyed doing in Dubai if you've visited, or what you would do if you went and I'll be sure to check it out next time I'm there!

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