TRAVEL: Bali, Indonesia - traffic, twilight and taking it easy

The last thing I would want to do in Bali is to drive. The roads are absolutely manic here, both in terms of the level of traffic and the reckless driving the locals take part in. Half of the population ride scooters which zoom in and out of traffic on roads so thin it's a miracle they don't constantly get knocked out by wing mirrors. Bear in mind too that these people don't often wear helmets, never leathers, and will ride with their young children and babies in tow. Not something I would be inclined to do! 

It took us 20 minutes just to make a u-turn out of the airport, and a further hair-raising hour to get to our hotel, the Alila Ubud, including some points where I literally grimaced at the proximity our minibus got to some of the scooters. Whilst it was late when we were driving in, a lot of the shops remained open including hundreds of sculpture shops selling smaller versions of the massive statues we saw enroute, including lions, dragons, Gods and demons. At least we had something to keep us occupied looking at whilst stuck in traffic!

The rooms at Alila are spacious, with beds looking out of the French windows with a view of the river valley below. If you're lucky, you might be able to see some wildlife climbing the trees outside your window. That is, if the wildlife doesn't come to you first...

Our first morning in Bali began bright and early with a free Tai Chi class held in the resort's sculpture garden, perhaps the most picturesque location to do your morning exercises. This was monkey territory, and they roamed around whilst we did our poses which made for quite a surreal experience. Class was, however, interrupted briefly when an adult monkey got too close to one of the participants and both participant and monkey got a bit scared. This was a pleasant way to start the morning - I know Tai Chi may not look too difficult due to its slow movements, but believe me, you feel it afterwards!

This was followed by a long and leisurely breakfast where we were presented with a daily changing menu from which we could pick as much or as little as we wanted to order. Given this, it took about an hour for us to order and eat, so give yourself plenty of time to savour every mouthful!

After meeting with the excursions representative to plan some upcoming tours, we had a quick dip in the hotel's infinity pool (of course) and then caught the free shuttle into the centre of town. The trip took about 45 minutes, longer than expected as we were caught behind a cremation ceremony which made for slightly slower going. Bali is a predominately Hindu country, so experiences like this are not uncommon, and as we drove along, we passed many beautiful temples, and people laying out offerings in front of their properties to ask for the Gods blessings. 

Our first destination in town was Jalan Monkey Forest, reached by walking to the end of one of Ubud's busy streets - an odd location for a monkey sanctuary. $3 will get you a ticket, and then you can spend as long as you want in the forest. It was absolutely wonderful, and we saw way more wildlife than we'd seen in Borneo as soon as we stepped into the forest. The whole place was covered in monkeys (I've never taken so many photos of monkeys in my life), and if you were lucky, and wanted them to, they'd even come over to say hi. Yes, very habituated, but much safer in this forest than wandering Ubud's heavily trafficked streets. This would undoubtedly be one of my top attractions to visit. 

Coffee was had at de'waRung restaurant, chosen for its shady interior which was essential given the temperature outside. Inside, they had a small courtyard with a fountain at the end which offered extra cooling and a pleasant view to admire while you sipped your coffee. 

From there, we walked to Ubud's Central Market. Ubud has many, many shops, a lot of which are relatively upmarket, but you'll definitely find cheaper crafts by visiting the Central Market. The market is essentially a long street of stalls selling much of the same stuff as each other - small souvenirs, Balinese clothing, home decorations, wooden sculptures etc, so it was a nice way to pass the time by walking up and down the street and choosing what we liked best. Don't take prices at face value - we were told to start haggling at a quarter of what the seller was asking for, and if they know they'll make a decent profit, they'll accept. A colourful way to spend an afternoon.

By the time we'd visited the monkey forest and the market, it was time for dinner, which we found at Fair Warung Bale, a non-profit which helps to provide healthcare and education with every meal bought. The tables themselves were particularly interesting, as they were placed on raised rattan platforms that you had to jump up to, and sit cross-legged on the floor - honestly a nicer experience than at a normal table. The food too was absolutely delicious - spicy if you wanted it, or not if you didn't, and costing only about $4 per main course. I heartily recommend. 

We then headed to Ubud Palace to collect tickets for the Legong Trance & Paradise Dance which had been recommended to us by the hotel reception. Starting at 7:30pm, it was one and a half hours of dancing and music like nothing you've ever seen and heard before. Each dance told a story, and was accompanied by Balinese instruments which sound completely different to anything Western. At first it sounded like a bit of a discordant cacophony, but listening closely and it became more beautiful -  I think it was simply because it was unlike anything I was used to. The dancers themselves were dressed in ostentatious and regal clothing full of golds and silvers, and the way they danced was very interesting. It was bent backs, slight movements of hands and necks, and very expressive eyes including lots of wide eyes that looked almost scared and not a lot of blinking. If you want something different, I'd definitely suggest checking it out, but make sure to get there by 7pm if you want a good seat!

The next morning I had intended to spend part of the day at a silversmiths workshop organised through the hotel, but seeing the price was about five times more than I was willing to pay, I decided to invest my money elsewhere. We headed back into frenetic Ubud looking for beauty treatments at one of the many, many salons in town. If you'd like a massage, facial or manicure, avoid the hotel as they will charge you outrageous prices, and you'll get something much more reasonable in town. However, you will get what you pay for - if you want fancy treatments with good ingredients try one of the nice salons (TripAdvisor is your best friend here). If, like me, you're not too fussed, hit up any place in town - there's about a million to choose from. 

Ubud does get a bit much though with its noise, congestion, undulating pavements and hundreds of tourists, so you won't want to stay longer than you have to, so it was back to the hotel (and more importantly the pool) to calm down after a hectic morning. 

Dinner that evening was special and unexpected, and we were given a free meal by Alila, which I assume every guest at the resort is entitled to. It was special in the fact that it was a taste of Bali, and so we were served a Rischtafel which included individual plates of steamed rice and 8 bowls of various meats and vegetables, curries etc to go with them, followed by Balinese basil and coconut ice creams. This was a great way to get an idea of Bali's cuisine, especially when only staying a few days on the island as you were able to taste a variety of dishes. This, coupled with the location of our table right next to the pool, made for a lovely last night in Ubud. 

It was up early the next morning to check out and prepare for our long day of touring Bali. We were picked up in a big red minibus (essential for the amount of baggage we were carrying!) by a guide and driver at 8:30 and began our trip. Given that we had such a busy day, our first stop to view some rice paddies in Tegal Lalang was very brief - I'm talking 2 minutes or less, but it gave us a nice vista to admire, albeit not for too long. 

We then headed to our first of many temples - Gunung Kawi in Tampak Siring - which was reached by walking down (and then back up) around 400 steps. On the way into the temple, and at all the temples we visited, street sellers were trying to sell us sarongs which they said were essential for the temples as otherwise we wouldn't be allowed in in shorts. This is true, but ticket entry to the temples also gives you rental of a sarong, which I particularly enjoyed as the material is beautiful and offers a sense of community as everyone else there wears the same thing. 

Next was Tirta Empul Temple, built around a holy spring which attracts tourists and Balinese alike to come and bathe in the holy water. The spring was stunning - pure clear water bubbling up from beneath the surface which was then pumped into another area where pilgrims (or indeed intrepid tourists) can bathe under a series of fountains to become blessed. It sounded wonderful - I only wish I had appropriate clothing so I could have experienced it myself. Then again, we were in a rush!

Things slowed down a bit for lunch, which was taken in Kintamani village at the Lakeview restaurant. I really couldn't have asked for a better place for lunch, as the name really doesn't lie. Sitting at the tables outside the restaurant, we had the most stunning views of Bali's Mount Batur volcano and the large lake next to it. This is a real attraction as many visitors to Bali undertake 7 hour hikes starting at 2am to catch sunrise from the top of Mount Batur. I was happy just seeing it from a distance - it really was something to behold. One of the best views I've seen in a while. 

A short buffet lunch later and we were off to Panglipuran village, aimed to give us an idea as to how Balinese people live, as I'm sure it's all too easy for tourists to ignore Balinese culture completely from the safety of upmarket hotels and resorts. Panglipuran was effectively a long, long streets, along the sides of which ran houses. The backs of these houses would then join onto other houses, usually those of siblings of those who live in the first house, and this in total creates the village. We had the opportunity to look inside one of the houses and it was quite pleasant - outside they have a wooden hut on stilts used predominantly for ceremonies. Opposite this is another hut of a similar size which contains a kitchen and bedroom, usually for the grandparents. The only problem is that these kitchens don't have chimneys, and using wood for fuel means that a lot of smoke builds up in these buildings, creating a huge hazard for residents health. Finally, a larger stone building holds the rest of the family. 

Bali is known for its temples - almost every house has one, and each village will have a number of community temples - so we then went to Kehen Temple. Although this was our third temple of the day, it was still very different from the previous ones, with different architecture and particularly beautiful carvings, and tens of shrines to all of the different Hindu gods and goddesses praised at the temple. 

Our final stop of the first tour (as our day was effectively two tours in one) was Tegenungan Waterfall, a powerful waterfall which was pleasant from a distance but less so up close due to the vast swathes of tourists swimming in its pool. Places like this would perhaps be better left to their natural beauty, but of course tourists swimming means more money. Even on the way in, shops were charging 3000 rupiah to use the toilet, so it's clear tourism is a huge money machine in Bali. 

Part two of the tour began with a two and a half hour drive to Bali's southern tip and Uluwatu Temple. Admittedly this temple stop was less for the temple and more for the view, as being the last point on the island it had incredible views out across the ocean, which at that point had massive rolling waves coming in - I see why Bali is such a surfing hotspot. 

We quickly made our way around the temple before heading to the amphitheatre at 5pm to buy tickets for, and get our seats for the Kecak Dance. This was a very different experience from the dance we'd seen a few nights earlier, as its main attraction was the music, which was comprised not of instruments, but of over 70 male voices who used their vocals to create unique sounds - a lot of quick 'che' sounds repeated over and over in different intonations, some rolling 'o' sounds, and the occasional longer sounds. It was truly unique, and very difficult to describe. These men created a circle in the middle of the stage, leaving a very small inner ring in which the dancing took place. The dancing was more like a story, as it played out the tale of Rama and Sita, with no talking, but emotions created by the men's voices, although they didn't appear to say actual words. The costumes were wonderful, and behind the action the sun was setting, lighting the sky up with deep reds and oranges, and it was these Balinese sunsets that drew most people to Uluwatu. Is there a more beautiful setting for a performance? I think not. 

Once it was dark, we made our way to dinner, although it took over an hour to drive what probably should have taken 15 minutes due to the ridiculous traffic. Eventually we arrived in Jimbaran, another village along the coast, and to Bayang Cafe, a restaurant in a series of seafood restaurants which line the shore. We walked straight through the restaurant and down the the beach, where a plethora of tables had been set up right on the sand - as close to the sea as you could be without being swept away. The seafood was as fresh as it could be and the location couldn't be beat. The only downside of what had been a thrilling day was the horrific traffic on the way to our hotel for the night in Sanur, which we didn't arrive to until 11pm. A less than enjoyable end to an enjoyable day. 

Our stay in Sanur was to experience the other reason people come to Bali - the beaches, so we'd booked ourselves into a beachside resort called Tandjung Sari, although this wasn't really appreciated until the morning as we were so tired (although we were welcomed to the resort with three strikes of a gong). Meals were taken in the restaurant which had only a boardwalk separating the resort from the beach - sections of which were owned by the resorts which spanned the main Sanur road, so that section of the beach would be just for us. 

Wanting to experience Bali beach life, we spent most of the day within the confines of Tandjung Sari, only leaving to walk up and down the long boardwalk and check out the other resorts. We did take a dip in the clear and inviting sea, but it turned out to be only 6 inches deep - not very conducive to swimming. I guess we should have realised this when we saw fishermen walking hundreds of metres out with water only reaching their shins... At least the resort had a nice pool! 

After a very chilled day of reading, swimming and relaxing we hit the road to head to the airport, leaving about 3 days early to catch our flight given our experience with the traffic from the previous night (I am only slightly exaggerating). Whilst the traffic was mildly less horrendous, the driving was not, and I kept my eyes closed any time we came to a junction for fear of all of the scooters and cars that came so close to the side of our minibus I'm surprised they didn't leave some of their paint behind. This kind of stress is not what you need after an otherwise relaxing day! Bali, I might miss your sunsets but I certainly won't miss your roads. 

My tips for Bali: decide what you want to get out of your time in Bali. As far as I'm aware, Ubud is probably the most well known destination in Bali, and a great central hub for doing cultural activities like temples, but if you're here for the sun, sea and sand, try places like Sanur or Nusa Dua instead. For the love of God, please don't rent a scooter if you value your life. Whilst we thankfully weren't involved in any accidents, there were some close calls, and bear in mind these were with foolhardy Indonesians who have been driving scooters like this for years. Tourists, not so much. Visit the Monkey Forest, see a Balinese dance, and enjoy the sunset.

If you liked this blog and want to read more, check me out on Twitter @CiarasCountry as there are plenty more travel blogs heading your way soon! I'd love to know what you thought of Bali if you've visited, or where is on your bucket list of places to go so drop me a message or a comment down below!