Friday 31 January 2020

Travel: WASHINGTON STATE - Bainbridge, Olympic National Park, Forks, & Aberdeen

*Read Part 1 of my Washington adventures here first!*

From Seattle, we packed up our Airbnb and headed down to the waterfront to catch a ferry to Bremerton... except we got on the wrong one and realised we were heading to Bainbridge instead. Oops.

Alas, there was nothing we could do, stranded at sea, so we just enjoyed the view and made the most of it. Arriving in Bainbridge, we drove to the cute Main Street and stopped for hot lavender lemonade and warm cinnamon buns at the busy Blackbird Bakery. Now that alone made the unplanned trip worth it.

Lucky for us, Bainbridge wasn't too far from where we were meant to be, and we headed along the windy roads shaded by autumnal trees towards Olympic National Park. Since we'd be visiting a few National Parks over the next few days, it made sense to buy an Annual Pass for $80 for the car, rather than pay $30 each time.

We asked for recommendations at the Visitor Centre and were suggested the Sol Duc falls, which involved a fair drive to the trail head and then a wet walk through tall and pretty trees to the aforementioned waterfall. It was pretty impressive, and we were some of the few people there which made it feel nice and secluded.

For accommodation that evening, we had planned to go back to the town of Port Angeles, but I spotted Forks, Washington on the map, and decided we had to go there. Why? Well, it was the setting for Stephanie Meyer's Twilight Saga, and I couldn't resist the opportunity to stay there. Plus, it was closer to where we needed to be the following day, so win-win really.

Forks was not quite what I'd expected in that it was pretty much just one short road, and that was about it. I wasn't quite sure what Stephanie had seen in it to base her novels, but I was willing to find out. We checked into the Pacific Inn Motel and wandered out for dinner at Pacific Pizza which appeared to be the place to be if you're a fisherman who loves camo. I fit right in.

After a night without too many run-ins with vampires and werewolves, we headed for breakfast and Blakeslees Bar and Grill. Not only did they have Twilight inspired coffee mugs, but outside were about a hundred elk munching from the apple trees and grass that paved the neighbouring air strip. Now that was pretty cool.

We headed off to a different part of Olympic National Park, with our first stop being the Hall of Mosses. The name kind of gives it away, and we walked along a trail with trees draped in mosses that looked beautiful dappled in sunlight. With extra time to spare, we also opted to do the Spruce Trail, and had the forest pretty much too ourselves.

One of the park rangers had recommended we stole at Ruby Beach along our drive, so this was our next destination. The beach was pretty, but brutally cold, with the glacial wind whipping at any exposed skin. Refreshing to say the least.

We continued on to Quintana Lake where we took another short walk through the forest towards an old homestead, and then decided to drive around the rest of the lake rather than returning down the road from which we'd come. Not our smartest decision, as this took nearly an hour and a half with not really much of a view. Live and learn, I guess!

By this point, it was time to start looking for somewhere to stay further down the coast, and so we first drove to Ocean Shores, enticed by its name. This turned out to be a resort town with a main strip running through the centre with hotel after hotel lining the street and not much else. There were plenty of deer, and even a trash panda (aka a racoon) to be seen along the roadside, but we didn't think there would be much in the way of nice places to eat, so carried on.

Perhaps we should have stayed at Ocean Shores, as the more tired we got, the more desperate our decision making became, and we pulled up at the first motel we found in Aberdeen.

Checked into our cheap Travelodge, we headed to Billy's for dinner, with my three course meal consisted of pretzel bites with beer cheese (yum), a veggie burger (odd texture), and deep fried raspberry cheesecake (when in Rome). Not bad for the middle of nowhere.

However, it was when I returned to my room that the fun began, as my neighbours were having a very vocal argument next door, with a lot of screaming and crying and threats being made. Deciding that the walls were certainly thin enough for bullets to pass through, I asked to be moved to a room preferably not next to the HQ for whatever drug/prostitution ring my neighbours had been members of.

After what turned out to be a pretty decent night's sleep, we ate breakfast at the hotel as it was included, and headed on our way. All in all, I wouldn't fault the Travelodge, it just depends on the clientele there at the same time you are. Having survived that night, it was time to head off into the mountains...

I hope you enjoyed today's blog! I'll be uploading the rest of my West Coast USA adventures shortly, so make sure to stay tuned to my Twitter @CiarasCountry and feel free to drop me a message in the comments for any recommendations of where I should visit next!

Tuesday 21 January 2020

Travel: SEATTLE, WASHINGTON - Starbucks, skylines, and Space Needles

Having safely arrived in Seattle in spite of a close encounter with the TSA in Honolulu, my first night was spent at the Hampton Inn Seatac, which of course can only mean one thing - hotel breakfasts, aka the main reason I travel.

Having stocked up, we headed off to Bellevue, an upmarket business neighbourhood. We stopped for coffee at Capitol One, a bank which offers discounted Peet's coffee to their credit card holders. Noice.

Something I didn't realise about Seattle is that it's a bit of a tech hub, and so our first cultural stop was the Microsoft Campus. Here, visitors can try out new tech like uber expensive gaming chairs and software that guesses how old you are or which type of dog you look at.

Being so nerdy had made us build up and appetite, so we drove to a nearby coffee shop called Five Stones for yummy avocado toast, although a surcharge was added that day due to low avocado supplies. Who'd have thought such a thing could be possible in our millennial era?

Given that we'd be in Seattle for a few days, we'd booked an Airbnb in Capital Hill which enabled us to have a place of our own just outside of the city.

As the sun began to set, we took a walk down to Pike Street Market to admire the views out beyond Puget Sound, and see the very first Starbucks. And who says I don't do historical stuff on my travels?

With dinner on our minds, I suggested the American institution that is The Cheesecake Factory. This turned out to be a pretty good option given that their 20 page menu has something for everyone, plus close to 40 cheesecake options. It's a win-win. I opted for a four cheese pasta (it works on pizza, and it works on pasta) followed by Adam's Peanut Butter Cheesecake, filled with Butterfinger and Reese's Cups. Pretty good.

Day two in the big smoke and I woke up at 2am - definitely channelling Meg Ryan a la Sleepless in Seattle. With sleep nowhere in sight, I waited until shops opened to venture to Safeway to see what grocery shopping in the middle of the night looks like, and then wandered back as light began trickling through the sky.

Once the whole gang was awake, we made our way to Verve for peanut butter acai bowls. The staff there aren't exactly the most reliable (customers have been known to leave because their bowls are taking too long, and my takeaway bowl was put in a to stay bowl), but the bowls are pretty good.

Embracing our inner techies, we wandered to Amazon district to take a look at the Amazon Go stores, where your movement is tracked so you can take whatever you want without worrying about cashier lines as you're charged automatically when you leave; and the Amazon biospheres, big domes filled with plant life.

We left Central Seattle towards Lower Queen Anne, home of the Space Needle. It's not the cheapest attraction, but given my inability to pass on climbing tall objects in cities (or hanging out of them, a la Toronto's CN Tower), I decided it was worth the money and booked in.

After waiting in a huge queue to get to the elevator, you are whisked up, up and up to the Observation Deck. Most of this is outside, which made it perfect for the sunny day I came on. The exterior is entirely glass, so you can walk around with an unimpeded view and even lean back against the glass overhanging the city if you're brave enough!

I particularly enjoyed the tech that they'd installed which allowed you to take selfies and videos by scanning your ticket and then smiling up at the camera on the roof; the photos from which you can later download on your phone - perfect if you're a solo traveller like I was!

Downstairs was the lower observation deck with glass floor, again, pretty cool. I wish I could've stayed there for a full rotation (about every 45 minutes), but given the queue to get down was about as big as the one to go up, I thought I'd better get moving.

Back on solid ground, we left the Lower Queen Anne district to head up to Queen Anne District. What no one tells you about Seattle is that its actually extremely hilly, so this was fairly challenging! But the view from Kerry Park certainly made it worth it, as you could see the whole Seattle skyline, which this time included the Space Needle too.

Since holidays are all about treating yourself, our next stop was ice cream at Molly Moon. Now, if you know me, you'll know I suck at making decisions, so after tasting two flavours and not really liking them, I panic ordered salted caramel. A safe bet, right? This one was majorly salty, and I think all of Molly Moon's flavours are rather intense, so if that's what you're looking for, try it, but if not, I'd try your hand elsewhere.

Pretty much the last key place we had to see was the Waterfront, so we traipsed past all of the fancy houses and down to the waters edge, walked along, and then had to walk all the way up the hills back to the Airbnb. Needless to say, after a day like that, my feet were killing me, and we weren't done just yet.

We'd booked dinner at Elliot's down on one of the piers, which meant heading all the way back to the Waterfront (my poor legs). Elliot's is famous for seafood, but unfortunately their vegetarian options weren't up to much (there was one) so I had a spiced pumpkin soup to start followed by a pretty ordinary cauliflower and chickpea dish. Dessert made up for it a bit with espresso panacotta, as did the view over the water as the sun set.

Our last full day in Seattle began with a drive out to Edmonds, where we went for brunch at the Rusty Pelican, a busy place with huge plates. I went for a variation on one of their combos - lemon curd crepes with 2 eggs any style and home potatoes; coupled with a seasonal apple cider. Not bad for under 20 bucks!

The main reason we were in Edmonds was to catch the ferry across to Kingston, a sleep town whose main attraction seemed to be some overly large chairs dotted around. We did a quick tour of the town, down to the bay to watch the gentle waves roll in, and then for a quick coffee at Majestic Coffee Roastery before hopping back on the ferry.

Back where we started, we took a drive over to Seahurst Park in Burien for a pleasant week along the coast of the Puget Sound, and then along to Lincoln Park to walk along the dog-filled Promenade. My kind of afternoon.

Legs still tired from the previous day, we decided to stay fairly local for dinner and head to Nue, an eclectic restaurant with dishes from all over the world. We had options from as far as Pakistan and South Africa, but I chose the spicy Malaysian Curry and a Tamarind soda. Something a bit different before we headed off to further explore Washington.

I hope you enjoyed today's blog! I'll be uploading the rest of my West Coast USA adventures shortly, so make sure to stay tuned to my Twitter @CiarasCountry and feel free to drop me a message in the comments for any recommendations of where I should visit next!

Saturday 11 January 2020

Review: AUSTRALIAN OUTBACK SPECTACULAR, Gold Coast, NSW


I visited the Gold Coast a few times when I was living in Noosa, and one thing that people always told me to do when I was in that neck of the woods was to visit the Australian Outback Spectacular. I didn’t really have any clue what it was, but hey, if someone tells me something is worth seeing, you bet I’m on board.

I decided to head over to the venue, right next to Movieworld, an hour or so early as my ticket said General Admission, and to me this meant first there, first seated. As it turns out, everyone does have an assigned seat, so there was no need to show up early, but it turned out I wasn’t the only one who had thought so, as there was already a line forming when I arrived.

Once doors opened at 6, we scanned our tickets and then were given a cowboy style straw hat to don for a few photos in front of a green screen. With that done, it was then free time until the show started. The waiting area was a huge room decked out like a country bar. I loved it. The decoration was spectacular, and in spite of its size, it felt really authentic. A singer serenaded us with country hits from atop a horse cart, and guests had the opportunity to buy a few drinks or take photos with some of the animal stars of the show.


About 15 minutes before we were let into the arena, one of the cast came to make announcements about the show, along with a few very corny jokes and what seemed to be an innumerable number of birthday wishes. Apparently this is the place to come when celebrating your special day.

At 7:15, we wandered into the arena – essentially a large area of sand in the middle with a huge screen at the back and seats all around the side. Even having booked a few days prior, I somehow managed to have a seat in the front row – the perks of coming solo I guess! The starter was already laid out, a goats cheese tart which I tucked into pretty soon after I sat down as it was already a bit lukewarm from sitting there, but decent nonetheless.



As everyone headed towards their seats, waiters came and offered us beer, wine, lemonade or water, and then the show began. The humungous screen at the front of the room displayed pictures of rural Australia – farming communities, Aboriginal people, intricate carvings, animals galore. The visuals were amazing, and I only wish cinemas had that good quality!

This was followed by people on horseback rushing out into the sandy area and performing a variety of acrobatics, which I imagine couldn’t have been very easy atop a horse. This was like a pre-show, as the show itself did have some semblance of a story which was half love story and half family-trying-to-save-their-farm story. Had it been a movie, it wouldn’t have been the most thrilling, but for a live action show they made use of what they could – bringing out sheep and cattle, dogs, tractors and cars, as well as a pretty-much to scale house.

As we watched, the waiters came to refill our glasses as much as we wished, and serve us food whilst the show went on. For the main course, we had an option of steak, chicken, or vegetarian. I’d say steak was far and away the most popular option. Quite frankly, the vegetarian option wasn’t up to much – a bean stew with some vegetables on the side, although the mashed potato was to die for.


It was nice how little this interrupted the show, and was done so smoothly, waitstaff flowing out silently from corridors to place your food down and float off again. All very smooth. We also had some staff members come around to sell the photos we’d had taken earlier, as this is, after all, a profitable business.

And so we came to the climax of the show - *spoiler alert* a wedding on horseback which ended with some of the cast members flying off to the heavens. It was so cringey you couldn’t help but love it. To top it off, it was also accompanied by dessert, a delicious chocolate and caramel tart. I certainly wouldn’t be going home hungry or thirsty.


I have to say I enjoyed my Outback Spectacular experience. For around $100 (plus accommodation and travel for me), it’s not the cheapest, but when you think about what you get out of it, it’s actually not bad. A pretty decent show that highlights some pretty impressive skills and does give you a bit of an insight into life in the Australian outback, a 3 course meal and unlimited drinks, and a snazzy hat to boot. I’d recommend.


I hope you enjoyed today's review! Hopefully I'll be doing lots of Aussie cultural activities whilst I'm here, so make sure to stay tuned to the blog and my Twitter @CiarasCountry for updates. Thanks for reading!

Friday 3 January 2020

Travel: BYRON BAY, NSW, AUSTRALIA



As much as I loved Noosa, there’s wasn’t always too much going on at the weekends, which is why I took every opportunity to head further afield when I could. One such adventure took me to Byron Bay, about 4 hours drive South of Noosa, and somewhere with a reputation for being a bit cool. 

I arrived on a Friday night, and checked into my home for the next two nights, the Cape Byron YHA. The hostel was perfectly nice – a swimming pool in the centre, a communal area, a really decent kitchen, and pretty standard hostel rooms. I’d opted for a 4-bed female dorm, figuring that it would be the quietest option for the weekend.

Once I’d checked in, I decided to check out the town, and quite frankly, found it a bit intimidating. Byron’s not big by any means, but it was a Friday night and it seemed like everyone was out, crowding buskers on the street and pouring out of bars. Coming from somewhere as sleepy as Noosa, this was a bit of a culture shock for me.

Tired from a long day of driving, I decided it was time to crash and made my way back to the hostel for a not-great, not-bad sleep (never forget eyemask and earplugs, people!) However, waking up early had its perks in that it gave me an option to take a walk down to the beach, which was about 10 minutes walk away from the hostel.

I loved this time – watching all of the early morning risers, dog walkers, and runners using the beach as their own personal playground, and it made me wish sincerely that in the future I’ll have a house of my own close to the beach so I can do this each and every day. I walked back along the roads to town, admiring the houses of the rich and fabulous and feeling only a little jealous.

Our next stop was one of Byron’s more hidden beaches – Tallows Beach and Cosy Corner, called so because it’s tucked behind a headland which does make it seem rather cosy. Again, another pleasant beach walk, complete with clear water flowing in over our toes.
 

Then it was back into town for a wander round (in daylight this time – much less intimidating) to admire the various street art and murals; and for lunch at Main Street Burger Bar. I opted for a BBQ pulled jackfruit burger and cookies & caramel milkshake, which sadly turned out to be more style than substance. Perfect for the ‘gram, but not as tasty as I’d envisioned.

With the afternoon ahead of us, we decided to venture out of town to The Farm, a boujee farm with animals and a pretty nice looking restaurant. This seemed to be a great place to take the kids for the afternoon, to stroll around and admire the wildlife, and then stop for some grub on the way out; or a ridiculously fancy picnic, as it seemed some had brought with them.

And yet, the day was still not over, so we went even further, to Brunswick Heads. This involved a super nice walk along the river and up to the beach, followed by a spectacular sunset where the sun was literally red. Sadly this was a result of bushfires burning a little way away so there was a bit of sadness behind this beauty, but it was a truly incredible sight to look at.
 

Dinner was at the appropriately named Brunswick Pizza & Thai (you’ll never guess what they serve there) for a fresh pad thai before heading to the Brunswick Hotel for an evening of live music in support of raising funds for the rainforest. A profitable day if I do say so myself.

My last morning in Byron started just the way I wanted it to, with another cruise along the beach to get me excited for the day. We then headed up to the Water Tower to check out the views (and more expensive houses) before moseying back down to the beach and along to The Pass, which offers wonderful views up and down the shore, and was the perfect place to just relax and enjoy being where I was.
 

Beyond The Pass, we could walk to Wategos Beach, which seemed to be a favourite for many as it was pretty busy. Byron certainly has no shortage of beaches to peruse, and I’m sure they get even busier come mid-summer.

With all that walking, we’d worked up quite an appetite, so it was about time for lunch, this time for cheesy, gooey Yemeni food at Yaman, right next to the beach. It was rather delicious, but a bit overpriced and even more so as they’d put a weekend charge on it too.

Having pretty much seen all of the Byron highlights by this point, we took the opportunity to just relax beside the beach and enjoy the buskers. Apparently if you’re into music, Byron is the place to start, as you can build up quite a following here, and my time there certainly showed that Byron residents are big into their music.

My last item on my Byron Bucket List was to visit the famous lighthouse, so we hiked our way through the forest up to the lighthouse, just in time to take some photos and watch the sunset. Like the previous night, this sunset was a pretty weird one due to the smoke, with the sun appearing to set behind a band of smoke, rise again, and then set one final time. Trippy. But beautiful.
 

We stayed until it was getting dark and then headed back down via the road and onwards into town to the Railway Friendly Bar, a super cool joint with good food and live music all night. A great place to end my Byron adventures, and how glad I was to have visited. Now, onwards to the next adventure!

I hope you enjoyed today's blog post! I'm doing lots of travelling soon, so make sure to stay tuned to the blog and my Twitter @CiarasCountry to stay in the loop!