Monday 20 May 2019

TRAVEL: Fraser Island Camping, Queensland, Australia


Noosa is certainly one of the most beautiful places in the world to live, but to say that it has a lot going on would not be the truth. Having lived here for a month and a half now, I feel like I’ve pretty much seen the best of what the town has to offer, and it was about time for me to venture further afield.

The most enticing option in the surrounding areas is definitely Fraser Island, so after a bit of research, I opted for Sunrover’s 2 Day 1 Night camping trip, firstly because it fit nicely into my schedule being just a weekend trip, and secondly because the whole tour was guided, and no way in hell was I going to do a self-drive tour (Me, in a car, on foreign lands? No thank you…)

Bright and early on Saturday morning, I headed down to the Visitor Information Centre on Hastings Street to be collected. Our guide for the two days, Mick, walked us over to the van which was to be our home for the next two days. On first glance, it looked a bit like prison transport – eight seats facing each other in the back of a van that seemed to have seen better days. But hey, this was all part of the experience, so I hopped right in alongside my travel mates – two Americans, two Swedes, and a French girl.

We set off, driving through Tewantin and onto the ferry which took us across to Noosa North Shore. Almost immediately, we began driving on the beach, which was super fun. The beach here acts like a road, so you obey the same road rules, meaning we were tearing down the beach at highway type speeds, dodging in and out of the waves as they rolled in. I thought this was all part of the fun, but realise now that staying so close to the waves meant staying on the most compacted sand, ergo the safest to drive on. The more you know!

About an hour and a half later, we arrived in Rainbow Beach where we had fifteen minutes to grab something to eat and admire the beautiful scenery. If I thought this was nice, I didn’t know anything yet. Connecting with another car which was bringing other adventurers up from Brisbane, we carried on until we got to Inskip Point, where the ferry would cart us across to Fraser Island. There wasn’t much talking throughout the drive, but Mick gave us a Bluetooth speaker to blast whatever we wanted as loud as we wanted, and the excellent music selection coupled with the stunning beaches we drove along made for a very enjoyable ride.

Waiting a short while at Inskip, we joined other cars for the short ferry ride across, and then the island was ours. Vast swathes of beach, sun and blue skies to cruise along. We drove first to our campsite for a quick sandwich. The campsite was actually better than I had anticipated, with fairly large tents and a good covered cooking area. Hypothetically, I should have been sharing a tent with another of the adventurers, but we had enough tents to have them individually if we wanted to – even if mine didn’t come with a mosquito net, but this didn’t turn out to be a problem.
 
Fed and watered, we jumped back in the car to head further up the coast, passing a dingo en route (oooh) before turning in to Wabby Lake. Reaching the lake itself involved a forty minute walk through the forest, and then down a very steep sand dune to reach the hidden lake itself. The sun was shining, so we headed in for a nice warm dip, only to discover the water was pretty freezing. Nonetheless, who knew if I’d ever return to Fraser (I hope I will!) so I jumped straight in.

A short while later, we soaked up the sun on the sand before making the trek back through the forest to the car. We continued along up the coast, tearing past slower 4 wheel drives and up to the Maheno Shipwreck. This cruise liner has been resting at this spot since the 1940s and photos don’t do the size of it justice. It was really impressive to see up close, and I wondered what would be left of it in a couple of decades time.

Two minutes away lay Eli Creek, one of the largest of the creeks that we had splashed through throughout the day. It has basically turned into a lazy river now, meaning you can float your way right down to the sea. Somehow this was even colder than Lake Wabby had been, but you can’t say no to an experience like this, so I braved hypothermia and pushed my way down the creek. Technically you could’ve just walked along it too, but where’s the fun in that?

By the time we were finished at Eli Creek, the sun was beginning to set, casting beautiful colours in the clouds and over the ocean. We raced back along the beach, but evidently more carefully than others, passing an overturned 4WD which had flipped onto its roof thanks to some unstable sand. With the tide approaching at quickly, this is the last position you’d want to be in. We even had a bit of a hairy situation ourselves, getting briefly caught in a bay as the water rushed in, but thankfully Mick knew what he was doing and got us safely out.

We reached the campsite as the heavens opened and took the last remaining glimpse of light to set up our tents with sleeping bags. With nothing better to do, I then went to watch the meal prep for dinner, before chowing down on yummy burgers and hot dogs. I headed off to play cards with my new American pals before we caught wind that a campfire had somehow been built in spite of the wet weather, so of course had to head outside to roast marshmallows over the fire and stare up at the stars before the rain came down again.

The following morning was definitely the earliest of any during my time in Australia, arising at 6am to walk down to the beach and watch the sunrise. This really was something quite special though and I was so glad I’d woken up early to see it, sitting in silence on the beach as the rays began to shine through.

Back at camp, we had a yummy breakfast of pancakes before hopping back into our beloved prison car to head into the centre of the island. Unlike the beaches, whose sand was flattened every day by the sea, the ground here was super uneven, making for a very, very bumpy ride, which at times felt like we were on a Disneyland simulator. Again though, great tunes and an appreciation for life made me think that there was nowhere else I’d rather be.

Thoroughly shaken and stirred, we arrived at the Central Station rainforest which, given all the scenery we’d seen prior, seemed quite out of place on the island. We wandered off for a walk through the tall Satinay trees, making it back to the car just in time for the rain to start again.

A short drive made longer by the bumpy road later, and we arrived at the beautiful Lake Mackenzie and its beautiful light blue waters stretching back into deep blue. As we headed down to the shore, the intermittent rain started yet again, and didn’t look like it was going to let up any time soon. Figuring that I was going to get wet anyway, I stripped down to my bikini and made a run for the water. Better to be intentionally wet than just walking around in saturated clothing, right?

Once in, it was actually really pleasant, and the rest of the group eventually joined me as the sun began to show its face again. We spent a happy hour playing in the shallows before the dreary clouds started rolling in, signalling it was time to go. Yes, there was a bit of rain during our time in Fraser, but not enough to impede any of our activities.

With that, it was time to bid farewell to Fraser, most of my companions taking the long ride back as an opportunity to nap. We drove back to Rainbow Beach, stopping here for lunch. I opted to try Brent’s Burgers, sampling an utterly delicious Cajun Cauliflower burger with the coolest fries ever – a must if you’re ever in Rainbow Beach. We parted ways with the Brisbane car, and then took the spontaneous decision to drive back along the beach up here, where we’d had to turn off before on the way up.

This was a great decision, as we got the chance to say goodbye to the beach, and also pass right by the Coloured Sands, cliffs of reds and oranges and yellows, making a perfect backdrop for a group photo and to cement the memories of what had been my favourite weekend of my time in Australia so far.

I don’t think I can fault this tour at all – I saw the best of Fraser Island, had a very competent driver and guide, and had the added benefit of doing it with a great group of people. I can only hope that my upcoming travels around this beautiful country will be just as good!

I hope you enjoyed today’s blog – be sure to follow me on Twitter @CiarasCountry for all future travel blogs, and drop me a message in the comments below with your thoughts on Fraser Island, or indeed anywhere I must visit while I’m in Australia – thanks for reading!

Thursday 16 May 2019

Concert Review: KACEY MUSGRAVES, The Tivoli, Brisbane, Australia



 *scroll down for a gallery of the event!* 


Plot twist: I secretly moved halfway across the world just so that I could see my favourite artist perform twice on the same tour. 

Not quite, but the fact that Kacey Musgraves was doing the Australia leg of our Oh, What A World tour a mere six months after I’d seen her in London (you can read about that here) was definitely an added bonus. I’d also heard plenty of good things about the venue it was going to be held in, The Tivoli, so I was keen to see how that compared with the venues I’d frequented back in the UK.

I’d had to travel a long way to get down to Brisbane, so was surprised that there was still a queue winding around the block by the time I got there, with doors only eventually opening after 7pm. The Tivoli was indeed a pretty venue, looking like an old theatre, although I was dismayed to find that there were absolutely no seats available, as any of you who have read my reviews before will know just how much I dislike general admission standing, particularly as it usually means I have nowhere to sit and write down my review. 

I chose to head up to the balcony, thinking it would be a bit less squashed up there (spoiler alert: it wasn’t) and waited for the opening act to come on stage. Bahamas, aka Afie Jurvanen, entered with a John Mayer-esque guitar intro, with this style seeming to be his vibe, which I wasn’t mad about.
As he played songs like So Free and No Expectations, this John Mayer vibe merged more with Mac DeMarco – long groovy guitar intros and interludes and a hell of a lot of funk, with Afie warning us ‘Watch out, this next one’s funky’ as he launched into Opening Act (The Shooby Dooby Song) which indeed did have a lot of shooby doobies. 

Afie showed off his impressive vocal range and guitar skills on songs like Caught Me Thinkin, Lost In The Light, and All The Time, and I was sad to see so many people on their phones. Like me, it was understandable that most of them were there to see Kacey, but I always try to be there and be present for the opening act as they are often very talented musicians themselves. 

The excitement was palpable as we waited for Kacey to grace the stage, which she eventually did in silhouette form. Dressed in a sixties style dress and thigh high boots, she began plucking away at the recognisable opening chords of Slow Burn. I appreciated how the set began the way the album does, and almost expected to carry on singing right into Lonely Weekend for song two. 

This wasn’t the case, but the second song was my current favourite (aren’t they all?), Wonder Woman. I just love the lyrics like ‘I can show you strong, I can fight for you / I can try to move mountains if you want me to / But baby, I ain’t Wonder Woman’ so hearing it live made my heart sing. 

It was here that she stopped to greet the crowd, promising us that she wouldn’t mispronounce Brisbane as I’m sure many an artist does. One of the best things about this concert, even more so than when I had seen her back in London, was the aesthetic set design, both in terms of lights and the screens behind her. During Butterflies, the screens shone circling butterflies and flowers, with Kacey taking a moment to revel in the fact that fans this side of the world knew the words to her songs, letting us sing along to the chorus as she held out the mic. 

Lonely Weekend and Happy & Sad were backdropped by beautiful colourful natural landscapes, with the latter being exactly how I felt at that moment – oh so very happy to be seeing Kacey perform live and yet very sad to know that it would soon be over, and who knew the next time I would be at her gig? 

Fans got a treat with Merry Go Round, the song that very much put Kacey on the map a few years ago, with subsequent hits and albums allowing her to stay there. Kacey’s guitarist got to go to town on the intro to High Time, one of my favourites from Pageant Material which now has an even deeper meaning for me.

Again, the set design astounded me as Golden Hour was literally backed by a golden hour projected onto the screen behind Kacey and her band, which just made it all the more vibey. This part of the set ended with what I think is one of Kacey’s underappreciated but incredibly fun songs – Die Fun – with Kacey riffing on the notes in a different style to on the album which was super cool to hear. She truly is a fantastic vocalist and I cannot fault a single note she sung throughout the concert. 

This led us into the acoustic section of the set, a red curtain pulled over the screen and the band coming to form a semicircle around Kacey. They kicked off with Mother, before moving into Oh What A World. The trippy music video for this song had just been released that day, which made me even more appreciative of the banjo solo (watch the video to find out why!) This again is a beautifully written song with lyrics that really make you think. 

At this point, Kacey took a good look at the crowd, admiring a fans t-shirt with a picture of Kacey as Barbie from the Met Gala just a few days prior, and asking how people could live in a country where things like Huntsman spiders exist (I ask myself the same thing every day). With the realisation that there could well be one in the venue that very moment, she said simply ‘F*** that’, a sentiment I certainly can agree with. 

We got a fun throwback with Family Is Family, followed by Love Is A Wild Thing which exploded back into an electric set midway through, which I thought was very well done. There had obviously been a lot of thought put into this tour and setlist, and I for one certainly appreciated it. 

I think every time I listen to the Golden Hour album, I get a new appreciation for Kacey’s songs, and most recently this has come with Velvet Elvis, the first song she played in this third part of the set. We did a fun ‘When I say Yee, you say Haw’ thing here, and the Aussie crowd showed her how they do this with a call of ‘Aussie Aussie Aussie Oy Oy Oy.’ I was pretty glad she wasn’t forced to do a shoey as many of the other artists I’ve seen over my time in Australia have been – keeping it classy here. I did hear she did a shoey out of a glass slipper in Melbourne though, which is indeed perhaps the classiest way to do it. 

The tear-jerking Space Cowboy was next, followed by the sassy Follow Your Arrow which is perhaps one of the best songs to sum up who Kacey is – an artist not afraid to push the boundaries but in such a way that you can’t help but appreciate it. 

Our encore came in the form of Rainbow and then yet another of my favourite songs, the incredibly fun, disco-inspired High Horse. I loved this particularly firstly because the groovy lighting really made it seem like we were in the disco this song was meant to be played in, and also because it seemed like Kacey really let herself go in this song, dancing along as she sang and looking as if she was having just as much fun as us (just with a bit more space)

I really can’t fault this gig, with the exception of being squashed in general admission. It was everything I had wanted it to be – wonderful vocals on my favourite songs, and with an incredible design that just worked and worked and worked. Golden Hour is the most deserving Best Album Grammy Winner in my books, and I cannot wait to see what Kacey has in store for us next – no doubt another fantastic album followed by another fantastic tour. 

Thanks for reading! Drop me a message in the comments below if you're a Kacey fan like me, and make sure to follow me on Twitter @CiarasCountry to be kept up to date on all the latest interviews and reviews I cover! 

Gallery





  

Saturday 11 May 2019

Australia Working Holiday Visa Checklist


I’d got it into my head a couple of years ago that I wanted to move to Australia, with no better time than the present. The good news is, I could, and quite easily at that with the Australian Working Holiday Visa, which offered young people from eligible countries the opportunity to come and live and work in Australia for up to two years. For anyone interested, I thought I’d share my initial experiences and checklist of things to do when preparing for a Working Holiday Visa! Please note that some of these tips may apply more specifically to WHV travellers from the UK, and are based on my experiences and suggestions.

1.      Find a job
This was the first thing I wanted to get sorted, as I didn’t want to find myself in a situation where I had my visa and was ready to go, but with nothing in particular to go to. I know some people fly over and then start searching for a job, handing out CVs and hoping for something to turn up, but having this security was important to me. I began by collating a list of industries and companies I was interested in, and then sending out cover letters and CVs to those at the top of my list. Doing this in advance was necessary, as some companies took a fair while to reply, although it was the ones who replied sooner rather than later that I ended up pursuing – so I guess preparedness from both sides counts!

2.      Get a visa
Job secured, I should probably think about getting my visa so as to make sure I’m actually around to do the job. This had the potential to be a fairly straightforward process, simply filling in a questionnaire with my details here: https://immi.homeaffairs.gov.au/visas/getting-a-visa/visa-listing/work-holiday-417/first-working-holiday-417; but became horrendously more complicated when the system didn’t really seem to understand that someone can live in a country that they are not a citizen of, as I had been doing for the past 20 years! Eventually the problem was solved, and I almost immediately got an email from the Australian government to say that my visa had been granted – aww yeah!

3.      Book flights
As if spending a lot of money to secure my visa hadn’t been fun enough, it was now time to splash out on flights. The more in advance you can do this, the better as flights can be pretty expensive – my flights ended up being more than £500, and that was just for one way! I looked around for the best deal, checking out sites like Skyscanner, Kayak and Google Flights before settling on STA. Bear in mind as well that you’ll basically be travelling for a day, and will no doubt be pretty jetlagged, so I gave myself a day leeway to rest once I’d arrived before I had anything else planned.

4.      Find accommodation
Now you know you’re going, you should probably find somewhere to stay. I was lucky enough to have relatives who were happy enough to put me up for the first few weeks, but other options for easy to find accommodation are the YHA, and www.flatmates.com.au

5.      Sort our currency
      In order to enter Australia, you are supposed to be able to show that you have AUD $5000 or more in your bank account. I did this using Revolut, a foriegn currency cashcard that allowed me to transfer GBP to AUD when the conversion rate was best, and meant that I could show customs officials my current balance in AUD on the app if needed. This also meant that I already had some money in my hand as soon as I got off the plane rather than worrying about converting currency upon landing. It's also worth bringing some cash with you as well, just in case you find yourself somewhere that doesn't accept card!

5.      Arrive!
Packing my life into 23kg wasn’t the easiest things to do, and we had to do some pretty nifty rationalisation to make sure everything fit. The good news is that you’ll be able to buy pretty much all you need once you arrive in Australia, although I have noticed that things are a bit more expensive over here, so if you can pack it, do. Unless of course it’s on the prohibited items list (particularly food) – make sure you check this before you go so you don’t get caught out at customs!

6.      Set up a bank account
I used my first day in Australia as an ‘admin day’ – get all the boring important stuff out of the way so I can then begin to enjoy my adventures. First up was setting up a bank account so I had somewhere to put my salary when it started coming through, as well as pay for things without having to use foreign exchange rates which is how I’d been paying for things up until then. We did a bit of research to find out the best bank for me, and then it was a simple case of heading into one of their branches (don’t forget your passport) and setting one up. Easy peasy.

7.      Enrol in Medicare
Being a UK resident, I was entitled to reciprocal healthcare in Australia thanks to Medicare. I didn’t need to do anything in advance, just show up to a Medicare centre (with passport, visa and proof of a reciprocal healthcare agreement from my home country - in this case a valid European Health Insurance Card), fill in a simple document, and I was good to go. A few days later, my Medicare card arrived in the post, ready for use should I ever need it.

8.      Apply for a TFIN number
The last admin thing that needed to be done was applying for a tax file number, which every WHV needs to have. This again was super simple, simply heading to https://www.ato.gov.au/individuals/tax-file-number/apply-for-a-tfn/foreign-passport-holders,-permanent-migrants-and-temporary-visitors---tfn-application/, filling in a document and waiting for my number to arrive in the post. Simple!

9.      Enjoy yourself!
So here I am, officially ensconced in Australia. I think I’ve got pretty much everything sorted, at least for the next few months, so have been taking the time to enjoy myself while I’m here – be that from exploring Brisbane after my arrival (coming soon to the blog!) or doing a scuba diving course (also coming soon!) in the hopes of using it in the Great Barrier Reef at some point during my time in this lovely country. There’ll be lots more exciting activities to come, so make sure to stay tuned to the blog and my Twitter @CiarasCountry to be the first to know when I post new articles about my time in Aus on a WHV!