Wednesday 29 April 2020

Travel: SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA


*Check out my previous Australian adventures here first!*

It felt so good to get back to a metropolitan city. I adore the trains in Sydney - double deckers with seats that you can move to decide whether you want to date forwards or backwards - how novel! I took the train from Sydney airport to Central station, a short walk away from my home for the next few days, Wake Up! Sydney hostel. 

Firstthing on my itinerary was, of course, a city walking tour, but this didnt start for another hour or so, so I decided to head out and explore the parts of town I wasn't likely to see otherwise. The next suburb over from where I was staying was Surry Hills, a leafy tree-lined suburb with lovely streets packed with all sorts of interesting shops. It gave off major Portland vibes and I can imagine that it would be a very liveable area indeed. 

The end of Surry Hills took me out to the bottom of Hyde Park, London's much smaller cousin. The park, whilst quite tiny in comparison to the Hyde I was used to, was still rather pretty with its Anzac Memorial, Greek-style fountain, and views of St Mary's Cathedral. I decided to make the latter my next destination as I'm well aware the Cathedrals can have some of the most stunning architecture. 

St Mary's was no different, quiet and serene with large stained glass windows and stations of the cross. Interestingly, all Holy Water had been removed and replaced with signs explaining its lack due to the risk of spreading disease in the form of the Corona virus. 

I was right on time for my walking tour which left at 2:30 outside the Town Hall. Led by eccentric ex-drama student Jake, we were brought to the lovely QVB, filled with upmarket shops selling everything from cashmere to macarons; Pitt St Mall; the various places named after Macquarie; Circular Quay with its views of Sydney Harbour Bridge and the Opera House; before finishing at the Rocks, the oldest area in Sydney. The tour was very informative, and I felt like even in those short few hours I had seen quite a lot of Sydney. 

It was now late in the day and about time I got something to eat, so I raced to find a quick bite and then headed back to the Rocks for my second tour of the day. This tour was full of history surrounding the convicts and criminals who had inhabited the area in the early days. As the sky darkened, it was time to head back through the busy streets and hope for a good nights sleep ahead of the following days excursions to the Blue Mountains and Hunter Valley. 


On one of my free evenings in Sydney, I decided to take a short walk to Messina, which I'd read made the best gelato in Sydney. I asked to try the top sellers - salted caramel & white chocolate, and pistachio praline; both of which were out of this world good. I was a very happy customer indeed. 



The next day began with good food too as I went in search of Sydney's best breakfast which appeared to be found at bill's. This was back in Surry Hills, and I opted for the ricotta hotcakes, subbing banana for strawberries. The thick and fluffy pancakes were pretty good, particularly when doused in light maple syrup or the housemade butter. 



The hostel had planned a walk from the world famous Coogee to Bondi beaches, so at 11am, a huge group of us accumulated in reception to head out. We caught the bus to Coogee and began our walk along the coast, passing through various beaches which I have no doubt would have been even prettier in the sunshine, and ending up at Bondi and its famous iceberg pool, a saltwater swimming pool where the sea water sloshes over the edge. 


Much of the group were staying at Bondi for lunch, but I had places to go, people to see, so I caught the bus back to Circular Quay to finish up my Sydney explorations. I walked around to get up close and personal with the Opera House, and then into the adjoining Botanical Gardens. Sadly the main attraction for me, Mrs Macquaries Chair, from where you are supposed to get the best views back onto the Opera House and the Harbour Bridge, was closed for renovation, but I still enjoyed wandering around the green park for a while. 

A cafe caught my eye as I left the gardens, as it offered taro frappes. This root vegetable, which I believe is quite popular in the Philippines, has a bright purple hue, so I was keen to test it out and hike my purple drink over to Darling Harbour. This harbour is home to Sydney's family attractions like SeaLife and Madame Tussauds, but also is just a very pleasant walk, with many restaurants lining its banks and boats pulling into the harbour from left, right and centre. 

After my day of intense exercise, it was about time I refuelled. I'd made a booking at Jack & Knife, purely on the fact that one of the reviews I'd read mentioned that they did a superb mac & cheese. Now, if you've read any of my blog posts before, you'll know this is the dish that I would die for, that I am legally obliged to try in every form in every city that I visit. Imagine my shock then, when I'm told by the waitress that they might not have any mac & cheese left because of the function taking place upstairs, but she'd check.

My heart started beating again when I was told they could indeed make me one. My mac & cheese arrived in a steaming bowl topped with melted brie. I don't say this lightly at all, but it was the best thing I've ever tasted. A friend asked me recently if I would consider myself a foodie, and whilst it wouldn't be an adjective I would automatically describe myself with, I realise I do tend to seek out the best food that a city has to offer, so I hope you can take my word when I tell you just how good it was. I gave my compliments to the chef and told him that this dish should have a space on the Main Menu rather than just as a side. Life changing. 

Thanks for reading about my time in Sydney! I have no doubt I'll be back in this beautiful city before too long - what are some things I should check out on my next visit? Drop me a message in the comments below or on Twitter @CiarasCountry where you can also be the first to know when I post a new travel blog!

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