TRAVEL: Brisbane, Australia - crocodiles, conservation and Christmas in July

Mornings in Brisbane are, surprisingly for me, very cold. I was expecting Australia as I know it - blistering sunshine and high high temperatures. Instead, we got 8 degrees. Bearing in mind it is the dead of winter here, it being almost as far South on the globe as you can get. This also means shorter days than those back home, so coming in early meant for a pleasant sunrise view from the plane. 

On our first day in Brisbane, we drove the car about an hour out to Australia Zoo, which in my mind was probably in a larger city like Sydney, but turned out to be pretty close to where we were. Arriving at 11am, the car parks were already very busy - but presumably less so than the day before, which had been Bindi Irwin's 19th Birthday Party, which apparently had over 5000 visitors attending. Probably a bit less manic when we were there. 

Australia Zoo gains its fame from founder Steve Irwin 'The Crocodile Hunter', who tragically died a few years ago from a sting ray attack. Nevertheless, his legacy remains strong at the zoo and almost every sign has a photo of him smiling, so it's nice to see his presence is still felt strongly at the zoo.

The zoo itself was lovely - definitely one of the nicer ones I've been to. Unlike most zoos, the animals weren't 'caged' to the extent that you would normally expect - instead, they're given free roam of enclosures which generally just had lowish fences around the edges that you could clearly see over. This was particularly the case in the 'Africa' section, where giraffes, zebras and rhinos had a massive expanse to wander around in. The whole complex is absolutely massive, so I recommend giving yourself a full day to make sure you see everything. We were there from 11-4, and were very much rushing at the end. 

They have a great variety of animals too - plenty of reptiles, crocodiles, beautiful birds, red pandas, camels, lemurs etc etc, and of course the best of what Australia has to offer - Tasmanian devils, binturong, wombats, koalas and kangaroos. The freedom the animals were given with their spaces was refreshing and made it feel less like a zoo and more like a conservation park, which I think was the aim. and there were a few animals in there I'd never seen before so I thoroughly enjoyed that. We also passed by Robert Irwin, Steve's son, who looks set to continue with his dad's legacy. If you need convincing, YouTube his appearances on various talk shows and you'll see just how much he cares about animals.

At midday, we headed to the Crocoseum to see the Wildlife Warriors show - Steve Irwin's attempt to get people to want to protect animals by educating them on how incredible these species are. It started off with birds, who swooped gracefully (and extremely fast) around the arena, as well as seeing one of the largest birds in the animal kingdom. The second part was crocodiles, Steve's speciality, and we were shown what to do if we come into contact with a crocodile so that we can respect their space and avoid any nasty confrontations. Very informative and amazing to see these animals up close. 

In the afternoon, I had signed up to help with the wombats, which involved heading into their enclosure to feed them and check they're doing okay. The enclosure we visited had 3 wombats - Waffle, Meg & Minibus - two of whom were common wombats and one snout-nosed, the latter of whom was incredibly soft. Wombats are lovely animals so it was great to spend some time with them. I learnt a lot too - did you know they're almost completely blind? This is why you shouldn't appear directly in front of them in case they get a fright and leg it. They're very fast too, and a wombat to the legs is like being hit by a bowling ball. 

As pleasant as Australia Zoo is, I must say that it is a cash cow - entry tickets aren't  cheap (but that's the case with any zoo) and everything else is pay as you go, including animal experiences, photos etc. Worth it? Yes, but probably only the once (although annual membership is a good deal if you live near). If you choose to go for one of the koala experiences, my recommendation would be to wear a thick shirt - mine was very thin and I ended up with some gnarly claw scratches on my torso!

Our final stop was the animal hospital, which I particularly wanted to visit. A $2 donation will get you in. It's not particularly big - just like a large operating room - and it wasn't very busy with animals when I visited, which is a good thing when you think about it, although it means less to see! There were few koalas receiving treatment, all of whom were doing what they do best (sleeping), an opossum, a bandicoot (who even knew they existed - Crash Bandicoot is real, kids!), and an abandoned joey who was being hand reared to be released back into the wild. Not much to see, but I was glad to have made a contribution to the wellbeing of some of these animals. 

Once back in Brisbane, we Ubered in to town (by far the easiest way to get around) to a restaurant on the riverside called Jellyfish which offered a great view of Story Bridge which was lit up in green at the time. Jellyfish is a fish restaurant (the name probably gave that away) and apparently the fish was lovely, although the vegetarian dish was disappointing, but I understand it's not their speciality! If you're looking for good seafood, that's the place to go. 

A fun fact about our trip to Brisbane was that it coincided with July 25th, which is 'Christmas in July' given that it's their winter. As it was a Tuesday, not much was going on, but I hear the celebrations really start at the weekend. So, if you do make a visit to Australia during the summer, that might be a good time to aim for! 

The following day we caught the train into Central station in the morning for coffee at Marchetti near the Tattersall's Club. Upmarket coffee and lots of cakes. Brisbane was busy and bustling - although a small city, there was lots going on including live music blaring out in the streets, and free public swimming pools which I bet are great in summer. We decided to undertake a walking tour, which took us down along the river, across Goodwill Bridge which offers lovely views of the sideline, and along Southbank. I stopped for a cheese and vegemite sandwich (not enough vegemite) to get the true Aussie experience. If you're looking for Aussie cuisine, I would absolutely recommend trying a Lemon, Lime & Bitters drink - it's delicious and I wish they stocked it in the UK! 

The weather was more pleasant during the day (again, sunscreen is a good shout) so it was nice to stroll along the banks of the river. Our return journey was by CityCat, a shuttle catamaran which you can take in place of the train - basically the equivalent of the Thames Clipper. This offers the best views of the city as you cruise along by some insane riverfront houses which one could only dream of affording - although with climate change and increasing flooding I doubt they'll be worth too much in the next few decades! A great way to travel home, and the perfect end to a pleasant few days in Brisbane. 

Advice for Brisbane: whilst a small city, give yourself time to enjoy it. I'm not sure we were there long enough to take advantage of everything the city has to offer, so a few more days would have been pleasant. Whilst it is Australia, bear in mind the time of year. The cold came as a bit of a shock to us, so it's not shorts and t-shirt weather all the time! While you're in Brisbane, or anywhere in Oz I'm sure, try and check out something with animals, and preferably with a conservation angle if you can. Australia has some of the most incredible wildlife that you can't find anywhere else so it would be a shame to miss it!

I hope you enjoyed this blog post! I'd love to hear your thoughts either on Twitter @CiarasCountry or in the comments section below. Be sure to stay tuned for more travel blogs coming soon and let me know the places you'd recommend to visit - I'm always keen to try new places!

TRAVEL: Bali, Indonesia - traffic, twilight and taking it easy

The last thing I would want to do in Bali is to drive. The roads are absolutely manic here, both in terms of the level of traffic and the reckless driving the locals take part in. Half of the population ride scooters which zoom in and out of traffic on roads so thin it's a miracle they don't constantly get knocked out by wing mirrors. Bear in mind too that these people don't often wear helmets, never leathers, and will ride with their young children and babies in tow. Not something I would be inclined to do! 

It took us 20 minutes just to make a u-turn out of the airport, and a further hair-raising hour to get to our hotel, the Alila Ubud, including some points where I literally grimaced at the proximity our minibus got to some of the scooters. Whilst it was late when we were driving in, a lot of the shops remained open including hundreds of sculpture shops selling smaller versions of the massive statues we saw enroute, including lions, dragons, Gods and demons. At least we had something to keep us occupied looking at whilst stuck in traffic!

The rooms at Alila are spacious, with beds looking out of the French windows with a view of the river valley below. If you're lucky, you might be able to see some wildlife climbing the trees outside your window. That is, if the wildlife doesn't come to you first...

Our first morning in Bali began bright and early with a free Tai Chi class held in the resort's sculpture garden, perhaps the most picturesque location to do your morning exercises. This was monkey territory, and they roamed around whilst we did our poses which made for quite a surreal experience. Class was, however, interrupted briefly when an adult monkey got too close to one of the participants and both participant and monkey got a bit scared. This was a pleasant way to start the morning - I know Tai Chi may not look too difficult due to its slow movements, but believe me, you feel it afterwards!

This was followed by a long and leisurely breakfast where we were presented with a daily changing menu from which we could pick as much or as little as we wanted to order. Given this, it took about an hour for us to order and eat, so give yourself plenty of time to savour every mouthful!

After meeting with the excursions representative to plan some upcoming tours, we had a quick dip in the hotel's infinity pool (of course) and then caught the free shuttle into the centre of town. The trip took about 45 minutes, longer than expected as we were caught behind a cremation ceremony which made for slightly slower going. Bali is a predominately Hindu country, so experiences like this are not uncommon, and as we drove along, we passed many beautiful temples, and people laying out offerings in front of their properties to ask for the Gods blessings. 

Our first destination in town was Jalan Monkey Forest, reached by walking to the end of one of Ubud's busy streets - an odd location for a monkey sanctuary. $3 will get you a ticket, and then you can spend as long as you want in the forest. It was absolutely wonderful, and we saw way more wildlife than we'd seen in Borneo as soon as we stepped into the forest. The whole place was covered in monkeys (I've never taken so many photos of monkeys in my life), and if you were lucky, and wanted them to, they'd even come over to say hi. Yes, very habituated, but much safer in this forest than wandering Ubud's heavily trafficked streets. This would undoubtedly be one of my top attractions to visit. 

Coffee was had at de'waRung restaurant, chosen for its shady interior which was essential given the temperature outside. Inside, they had a small courtyard with a fountain at the end which offered extra cooling and a pleasant view to admire while you sipped your coffee. 

From there, we walked to Ubud's Central Market. Ubud has many, many shops, a lot of which are relatively upmarket, but you'll definitely find cheaper crafts by visiting the Central Market. The market is essentially a long street of stalls selling much of the same stuff as each other - small souvenirs, Balinese clothing, home decorations, wooden sculptures etc, so it was a nice way to pass the time by walking up and down the street and choosing what we liked best. Don't take prices at face value - we were told to start haggling at a quarter of what the seller was asking for, and if they know they'll make a decent profit, they'll accept. A colourful way to spend an afternoon.

By the time we'd visited the monkey forest and the market, it was time for dinner, which we found at Fair Warung Bale, a non-profit which helps to provide healthcare and education with every meal bought. The tables themselves were particularly interesting, as they were placed on raised rattan platforms that you had to jump up to, and sit cross-legged on the floor - honestly a nicer experience than at a normal table. The food too was absolutely delicious - spicy if you wanted it, or not if you didn't, and costing only about $4 per main course. I heartily recommend. 

We then headed to Ubud Palace to collect tickets for the Legong Trance & Paradise Dance which had been recommended to us by the hotel reception. Starting at 7:30pm, it was one and a half hours of dancing and music like nothing you've ever seen and heard before. Each dance told a story, and was accompanied by Balinese instruments which sound completely different to anything Western. At first it sounded like a bit of a discordant cacophony, but listening closely and it became more beautiful -  I think it was simply because it was unlike anything I was used to. The dancers themselves were dressed in ostentatious and regal clothing full of golds and silvers, and the way they danced was very interesting. It was bent backs, slight movements of hands and necks, and very expressive eyes including lots of wide eyes that looked almost scared and not a lot of blinking. If you want something different, I'd definitely suggest checking it out, but make sure to get there by 7pm if you want a good seat!

The next morning I had intended to spend part of the day at a silversmiths workshop organised through the hotel, but seeing the price was about five times more than I was willing to pay, I decided to invest my money elsewhere. We headed back into frenetic Ubud looking for beauty treatments at one of the many, many salons in town. If you'd like a massage, facial or manicure, avoid the hotel as they will charge you outrageous prices, and you'll get something much more reasonable in town. However, you will get what you pay for - if you want fancy treatments with good ingredients try one of the nice salons (TripAdvisor is your best friend here). If, like me, you're not too fussed, hit up any place in town - there's about a million to choose from. 

Ubud does get a bit much though with its noise, congestion, undulating pavements and hundreds of tourists, so you won't want to stay longer than you have to, so it was back to the hotel (and more importantly the pool) to calm down after a hectic morning. 

Dinner that evening was special and unexpected, and we were given a free meal by Alila, which I assume every guest at the resort is entitled to. It was special in the fact that it was a taste of Bali, and so we were served a Rischtafel which included individual plates of steamed rice and 8 bowls of various meats and vegetables, curries etc to go with them, followed by Balinese basil and coconut ice creams. This was a great way to get an idea of Bali's cuisine, especially when only staying a few days on the island as you were able to taste a variety of dishes. This, coupled with the location of our table right next to the pool, made for a lovely last night in Ubud. 

It was up early the next morning to check out and prepare for our long day of touring Bali. We were picked up in a big red minibus (essential for the amount of baggage we were carrying!) by a guide and driver at 8:30 and began our trip. Given that we had such a busy day, our first stop to view some rice paddies in Tegal Lalang was very brief - I'm talking 2 minutes or less, but it gave us a nice vista to admire, albeit not for too long. 

We then headed to our first of many temples - Gunung Kawi in Tampak Siring - which was reached by walking down (and then back up) around 400 steps. On the way into the temple, and at all the temples we visited, street sellers were trying to sell us sarongs which they said were essential for the temples as otherwise we wouldn't be allowed in in shorts. This is true, but ticket entry to the temples also gives you rental of a sarong, which I particularly enjoyed as the material is beautiful and offers a sense of community as everyone else there wears the same thing. 

Next was Tirta Empul Temple, built around a holy spring which attracts tourists and Balinese alike to come and bathe in the holy water. The spring was stunning - pure clear water bubbling up from beneath the surface which was then pumped into another area where pilgrims (or indeed intrepid tourists) can bathe under a series of fountains to become blessed. It sounded wonderful - I only wish I had appropriate clothing so I could have experienced it myself. Then again, we were in a rush!

Things slowed down a bit for lunch, which was taken in Kintamani village at the Lakeview restaurant. I really couldn't have asked for a better place for lunch, as the name really doesn't lie. Sitting at the tables outside the restaurant, we had the most stunning views of Bali's Mount Batur volcano and the large lake next to it. This is a real attraction as many visitors to Bali undertake 7 hour hikes starting at 2am to catch sunrise from the top of Mount Batur. I was happy just seeing it from a distance - it really was something to behold. One of the best views I've seen in a while. 

A short buffet lunch later and we were off to Panglipuran village, aimed to give us an idea as to how Balinese people live, as I'm sure it's all too easy for tourists to ignore Balinese culture completely from the safety of upmarket hotels and resorts. Panglipuran was effectively a long, long streets, along the sides of which ran houses. The backs of these houses would then join onto other houses, usually those of siblings of those who live in the first house, and this in total creates the village. We had the opportunity to look inside one of the houses and it was quite pleasant - outside they have a wooden hut on stilts used predominantly for ceremonies. Opposite this is another hut of a similar size which contains a kitchen and bedroom, usually for the grandparents. The only problem is that these kitchens don't have chimneys, and using wood for fuel means that a lot of smoke builds up in these buildings, creating a huge hazard for residents health. Finally, a larger stone building holds the rest of the family. 

Bali is known for its temples - almost every house has one, and each village will have a number of community temples - so we then went to Kehen Temple. Although this was our third temple of the day, it was still very different from the previous ones, with different architecture and particularly beautiful carvings, and tens of shrines to all of the different Hindu gods and goddesses praised at the temple. 

Our final stop of the first tour (as our day was effectively two tours in one) was Tegenungan Waterfall, a powerful waterfall which was pleasant from a distance but less so up close due to the vast swathes of tourists swimming in its pool. Places like this would perhaps be better left to their natural beauty, but of course tourists swimming means more money. Even on the way in, shops were charging 3000 rupiah to use the toilet, so it's clear tourism is a huge money machine in Bali. 

Part two of the tour began with a two and a half hour drive to Bali's southern tip and Uluwatu Temple. Admittedly this temple stop was less for the temple and more for the view, as being the last point on the island it had incredible views out across the ocean, which at that point had massive rolling waves coming in - I see why Bali is such a surfing hotspot. 

We quickly made our way around the temple before heading to the amphitheatre at 5pm to buy tickets for, and get our seats for the Kecak Dance. This was a very different experience from the dance we'd seen a few nights earlier, as its main attraction was the music, which was comprised not of instruments, but of over 70 male voices who used their vocals to create unique sounds - a lot of quick 'che' sounds repeated over and over in different intonations, some rolling 'o' sounds, and the occasional longer sounds. It was truly unique, and very difficult to describe. These men created a circle in the middle of the stage, leaving a very small inner ring in which the dancing took place. The dancing was more like a story, as it played out the tale of Rama and Sita, with no talking, but emotions created by the men's voices, although they didn't appear to say actual words. The costumes were wonderful, and behind the action the sun was setting, lighting the sky up with deep reds and oranges, and it was these Balinese sunsets that drew most people to Uluwatu. Is there a more beautiful setting for a performance? I think not. 

Once it was dark, we made our way to dinner, although it took over an hour to drive what probably should have taken 15 minutes due to the ridiculous traffic. Eventually we arrived in Jimbaran, another village along the coast, and to Bayang Cafe, a restaurant in a series of seafood restaurants which line the shore. We walked straight through the restaurant and down the the beach, where a plethora of tables had been set up right on the sand - as close to the sea as you could be without being swept away. The seafood was as fresh as it could be and the location couldn't be beat. The only downside of what had been a thrilling day was the horrific traffic on the way to our hotel for the night in Sanur, which we didn't arrive to until 11pm. A less than enjoyable end to an enjoyable day. 

Our stay in Sanur was to experience the other reason people come to Bali - the beaches, so we'd booked ourselves into a beachside resort called Tandjung Sari, although this wasn't really appreciated until the morning as we were so tired (although we were welcomed to the resort with three strikes of a gong). Meals were taken in the restaurant which had only a boardwalk separating the resort from the beach - sections of which were owned by the resorts which spanned the main Sanur road, so that section of the beach would be just for us. 

Wanting to experience Bali beach life, we spent most of the day within the confines of Tandjung Sari, only leaving to walk up and down the long boardwalk and check out the other resorts. We did take a dip in the clear and inviting sea, but it turned out to be only 6 inches deep - not very conducive to swimming. I guess we should have realised this when we saw fishermen walking hundreds of metres out with water only reaching their shins... At least the resort had a nice pool! 

After a very chilled day of reading, swimming and relaxing we hit the road to head to the airport, leaving about 3 days early to catch our flight given our experience with the traffic from the previous night (I am only slightly exaggerating). Whilst the traffic was mildly less horrendous, the driving was not, and I kept my eyes closed any time we came to a junction for fear of all of the scooters and cars that came so close to the side of our minibus I'm surprised they didn't leave some of their paint behind. This kind of stress is not what you need after an otherwise relaxing day! Bali, I might miss your sunsets but I certainly won't miss your roads. 

My tips for Bali: decide what you want to get out of your time in Bali. As far as I'm aware, Ubud is probably the most well known destination in Bali, and a great central hub for doing cultural activities like temples, but if you're here for the sun, sea and sand, try places like Sanur or Nusa Dua instead. For the love of God, please don't rent a scooter if you value your life. Whilst we thankfully weren't involved in any accidents, there were some close calls, and bear in mind these were with foolhardy Indonesians who have been driving scooters like this for years. Tourists, not so much. Visit the Monkey Forest, see a Balinese dance, and enjoy the sunset.

If you liked this blog and want to read more, check me out on Twitter @CiarasCountry as there are plenty more travel blogs heading your way soon! I'd love to know what you thought of Bali if you've visited, or where is on your bucket list of places to go so drop me a message or a comment down below!

TRAVEL: Borneo - monkeys, mosquitoes and mud volcanoes

Borneo is not quite what I had expected. I guess I had envisioned somewhere like the Amazon or rural Argentina, where upon arrival, you're surrounded by jungle, and the only way to travel is by 4x4s only dirt roads. Instead, the city we began our journey in, Sandakan, was very much that - a city. 

Our first night was spent at the Four Points by Sheraton Hotel, far and away the largest hotel in the small city, and undoubtedly the one that most tourists stay at. Although pretty basic, it nonetheless had all the amenities you'd expect from a hotel. However, we did get brilliant views of the sea from both sides of the hotel, so whilst the TV lost connection whenever it rained, at least you could admire the scenery for a while. 

After checking in, we headed out to explore the town. Our first stop was the Central Market, where local fruits and produce were sold. It appeared that the stall keepers worked all day, as was evidenced by one man asleep in a produce trolley. However, I wasn't too keen to stay too long due to the distinctive aroma of dried fish, used as the base for many Malaysian dishes here.

We then headed off on the Sandakan Heritage Trail, which effectively took us all over the small city. Sight along the route included the William Prior Memorial, the hundred steps (wayyyyy more than a hundred steps), the Agnes Keith House, and a colourful Chinese temple. Some of the housing blocks along route looked pretty delapidated, but I think that was mainly to do with the climate, as mould had begun to grow on the outsides of the buildings, making it look quite like the abandoned Japanese island of Hashima.

Whilst not too exciting, the Trail offered a means to pass the afternoon and get out of the hotel. Once the sun had set, we went out in search of dinner, ending up at the Harbour Restaurant a short walk from our hotel. Menus here are confusing, and I can't say I have any idea as to what most of the things on the menu are, so either be adventurous and take a random pick or stick to what you know. Being vegetarian, and knowing most dishes here contained chicken or fish, I chose the latter and ended up with some vegetable fried rice. Over dinner, we were kept entertained by cats walking along the harbour wall, no doubt in search of dinner too. 

It was an early start the following morning, and after a quick breakfast we met our Trailfinders guide, Hilary, and minibus driver, Clarence. Our first visit was to the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre, where orphaned and injured orangutans are rehabilitated to hopefully be released back into the wild in later life. Walking along long wooden walkways, we first came to the 'teenager nursery' where some of the older orangutans, but still not ready to enter the jungle, come to play. We got some nice views of two teenagers, one of whom was quite a bit bigger than the other, who got very freaked out whenever it came near! 

At 10am, we walked over to the feeding area, with a surprise encounter along route with an orangutan walking along the walkway railing, which is probably the closest you're ever going to get to one. All the orangutans at Sepilok are named to help identify them, and this was was Cinta. The feeding itself was frenzied - not with orangutans, but with tourists, as it was completely packed. Thankfully the standing areas were tiered so it wasn't just a sea of cameras, and we were able to get a good view of the orangutan, Che, who came down for the feeding, completely ignoring all of the tourists. 

Leaving the Rehabilitation Centre, we drove another hour or so to Gomantong Caves, famous for the swiftling birds who nest inside, and whose nests are harvested four times a year to be sold to the Chinese who use them in anti-ageing soups. This certainly isn't a stop that all would enjoy. After donning hard hats, we walked again along long walkways before arriving at the cave. Inside, the ground was completely covered in cockroaches, and every step you took, handfuls of them would scuttle out of the way to avoid your shoe. I found it best to avoid looking down. 

Being a nesting site for both the swiftlings and bats, there was also a lot of guano (meaning the hardhats were useful for more than just rockfalls). Slipping over or holding handrails, therefore, were not options, as that mixed with the cockroaches is not something I'd like to encounter. Don't get me wrong, the cave was interesting, and looking up, you could see the birds and bats, as well as the implements workers use to extract the nests. However, I can also see how this would be some peoples idea of Hell. Be prepared. Personally, I'm glad we went, as it was an adventure, albeit a slightly creepy one. 

However, a benefit was that on the drive away from the Caves, we did see a flying lemur resting in the trees, a rare sight given that they are nocturnal animals. Whilst called flying lemurs, these mammals are in fact more closely related to flying squirrels, as you could see from their large skin flaps wrapped around the tree. 

A short drive brought us to our main destination, the Bilit Rainforest Lodge, which was reached by a 3 minute speedboat ride up the Kinabatangan River. This felt more like Borneo to me - we'd left the roads and were now in the jungle, hoping to see some of the region's unique wildlife. 

After a light buffet lunch, we headed out in one of the speedboats again for a river cruise, although it was less what you might imagine upon hearing the words 'river cruise' and instead more a wildlife spotting boat ride. This was wildlife done properly - not easy to spot and kept in enclosures, but spottable only by our regional guides. Over the course of the two hour trip, we saw various birds including eagles and hornbills, Macaque and Proboscis monkeys, with the latter famous for its overly large nose; a serpent, and in the final home stretch, finally an orangutan which got everyone on the boat very excited. Of course, we weren't up close and personal with these animals, but it was nice to see them in their natural habitat. 

Walking back to our lodge, we saw Macaque monkeys running under the building stilts. We were very much in the jungle, as evidenced again even when taking a shower, as the windows are left open (with bug nets of course) so you can hear the cicadas and other wildlife just on the other side. 

After dinner, we were back on the boat for another cruise, this time in the dark. This one was less successful than the afternoons, but we still saw some kingfishers and a baby crocodile. At one point, the pilot switched off the engine and we were given a few minutes to listen to the sounds of the jungle and gaze up at the stars, which was a pleasant way to end the evening. 

The following morning started off eventfully as I almost ran straight into a monkey on my way down to the jetty - I think we were both equally surprised. This cruise was a morning one, starting at 6:30am and taking us on a similar route to the day before, but this time also including an oxbow lake which was reached by a small tributary through an archway of trees. Again, the wildlife count wasn't great, and we only saw a few hornbills, herons, eagles and the same orangutan as yesterday afternoon, still sitting in its tree and eating. Nice of it not to move so we could get some more pictures though. 

This seemed to be the downtime day, and it wasn't until 11am that we set off again, this time to the small village which is right next door to the lodge. Personally, I found this excursion a bit dull, as we walked extremely slowly, as doing it at a normal pace would have mean we would have reached the other end of the village in under 5 minutes given that it was so close to the lodge and only contained about 5 houses. There also wasn't too much to see, with the commentary being along the lines of "This is a typical Bornean house. This is a tree. Here's another house," so I don't think we would have missed too much by staying home - but, you have to experience things to know what you'd be missing! 

The afternoon was very chilled - something I'm not a big fan of on trips as I like to be out there doing things, but we headed down to the jetty at 4pm for our final cruise. This was supposed to offer slightly different wildlife to previous trips, as this time we were going upstream. However, animals were far and few between, and we saw most of the same herons, hornbills and Proboscis monkeys that we'd seen on other excursions. I guess I'm more used to being inundated with wildlife when visiting countries famous for their ecosystems rather than seeing only a few over the course of a couple of hours. Nonetheless, the breeze that came with travelling in a speedboat offered a welcome break from the humid environment. 

Perhaps the most exciting element of the day was arriving back at the lodge and seeing three civit, which are cat like weasel creatures, hanging out near the dining room. Animals around the lodge, and indeed in this whole region of Borneo seem not to mind humans, I assume because boats and cameras have become an everyday part of life for them. 

The following day was without an early start as we had no morning cruise, and only had to be ready to leave by 9am. A two and a bit hour drive took us to Lahad Datu airport, which we would be returning to later in the week, where we swapped vehicles and made our way to Tabin Wildlife Reserve, driving slowly along bumpy roads. I was dismayed to see that most of the scenery enroute was palm plantations, which have almost completely taken over Borneo's landscape as palm oil is used in so many products. It's nice to know that at least a little of the rainforest remains intact in reserves such as Tabin.

Upon arrival at Tabin Wildlife Resort, we were presented with leaf crowns (an easy way to make the newcomers stand out), briefed of the activities we would be undertaking, told to pick out some Wellington boots for our time at the resort, and told to invest in a pair of leech socks which are effectively cotton stockings worn over socks which prevent leeches from crawling into your boot and biting your feet. Unfortunately, by the time we got to the shop they were all sold out with no new supplies for another two weeks. Guess we'd have to risk it. I've been bitten by leeches before and can assure you they're not that bad!

 Our main activity was a 2.9km trek to the Mud Volcano, which involved walking along the so-called 'Elephant Trail', as Tabin is one of the few places still home to the just 2000 Pygmy Elephants in Malaysia. Our guide began the hike with a safety briefing, notifying us that a guest had been killed by an elephant a few years ago, and flash photography was therefore not allowed as it may enrage any elephants we might see. 

The terrain was fairly okay to walk along, although very muddy at points (we were going to Mud Volcano) but the worst part was the heat. At 32'C and 100% humidity, clothes became saturated within minutes and we were advised to keep drinking water in order to replace all the water we were losing. This is the kind of reality that you don't see on orangutan documentaries and the like! 

Despite being a wildlife reserve, we didn't see any wildlife, except for the odd leech here and there. Even with leech socks, one member of our group managed to get a leech in his boot, and the guide himself got a leech in his trousers (wear zipped trousers, not buttoned!) Nevertheless, this felt more adventurous than our speed boat cruises of the day before as we wove our way through the jungle, the guide ahead whacking plants out of the way with his machete. 

We finally made it to Mud Volcano, which despite its name, is not a volcano but a distinctly waterlogged area, meaning that new mud is constantly being created and bubbles up to the surface. The result is a wide expanse of grey mud, some of it hardened and some less so. You had to watch your footing as stepping on the new mud could suck your foot right in to above the knee, which happened to one boy on the hike who then had to be hauled out by the armpits, thankfully with Wellington still intact. Still, I'd hate to be the one that had to clean that boot...

Like most natural mud, we were told that this too could provide a tightening facial, so I dipped my hand into one of the mud pools and smeared it over my face. Within a few minutes the mud had hardened, and the short truck ride back to the resort also helped with the cooling breeze. Following a (messy) shower, I can tell you that my skin does feel nice and soft.  

The night drive started out as a bit of a bust, as we only saw a few birds and some Civit for the majority of the trip. However, things started picking up once we turned onto a new road, and we spotted a black flying squirrel actually in flight which was pretty spectacular, a leopard cat (shortly scared away by one of the members of our group going "Wow!") and an angry looking owl. I guess I'd be angry too if I had a group of people staring at me and taking photos.

Our morning walk started at 6:30 which was a bit of a respite as the itinerary had stated that it would begin at 5:30am. I'll take any little victory. It was quite a short walk of only an hour, with the main attraction being the gibbons who reside in a tree close to the resort entrance. They have the most amazing call (Google it!) which was very pleasant to listen to, as was watching the gibbons swoop gracefully from tree to tree. They don't tend to walk, instead swinging their way along branches. 

The next activity was a trip to the Lipad Waterfall, which was reached by a drive in our open-bed truck and a 400m walk to the waterfall, although it felt much longer due to the terrain and the need to wade through the river and balance on slippy rocks. Thankfully no-one slipped as that wouldn't have been good for the cameras everyone was carrying. Upon arrival, we were given 30 minutes to swim in the waterfall, a much needed break from the humid Bornean weather. The braver of us also headed underneath the waterfall itself, although the water coming down was fairly vicious! A very enjoyable morning. 

In the early afternoon, we were invited to a foot soak, which first involved another mud face mask - I think I might have gone a bit over the top with the mud as I couldn't move any of my facial muscles by the time it had tightened! This was accompanied by resting our feet in a bowl of warm water mixed with various herbs and river stones meant to exfoliate, a much needed necessity after all our hiking. What was particularly great was the close encounter I had on the way back from the soak with a pig-tailed Macaque who was sat watching us as we walked by. 

This was followed by a long drive around the Reserve, the first half in the fading light before waiting for the sun to go down at the old Palm oil plantation before driving back in the dark. Whilst we waited, the creepiest sounding cicadas began their call (Google it and you'll see how weird they sound!) - it sounded like the type of thing you'd imagine to hear just before you die! We didn't see much wildlife in the three hours we were out with the exception of a sleeping Monitor lizard, but I did enjoy watching the fireflies swoop around the trees. Thankfully, we did see a bit more on our night hike, included a number of frogs (including one who played dead), some water skinks and a few sleepy birds. 

Borneo's wildlife is both weird and wonderful. As I was waiting to come down from my lodge on one of the nights, I heard what sounded like an angry dog barking outside my door. Realising that it was unlikely there would be dogs in the middle of the jungle, I thought it might be an irate monkey, but a cursory glance out of the window revealed nothing. Cautiously I left the building and finding no dangerous animals, walked down to the main area to ask our guide what it was. Turns out it was simply a large gecko - an unexpected answer! But things like this are part of the reason I love going to places like Borneo - who would have thought I'd find the world's scariest sounding gecko? 

After another uneventful morning hike at 6:30 the next morning, we hit the (bumpy) road to the tiny Lahad Datu airport for our hour long flight to Kota Kinabalu. This was very much a stopover destination before we travelled on so not much had been planned, but the travel agent had organised a city tour for us. This brought us to the state museum where we were able to learn more about Borneo's colonial history, a Heritage Village which showed the types of abodes local people used to live in, past some of Borneo's few tall buildings, and to the City Mosque, where we donned headscarves and were allowed to enter for a little while before prayers started. Our guide was quite friendly and even wanted to take selfies with us at various destinations around the city! It was then time for our final night in Borneo at the Hyatt Regency in town before wishing the region and its wildlife goodbye for the last time. 

My advice for Borneo: do not expect to be inundated with animals left, right and centre. This was my mistake, and it does lead to disappointment. Hopefully this blog has given you an idea of some realistic expectations of the wildlife you might see, but of course wildlife is unpredictable so you might be luckier - one group who had visited Sepilok the day before us saw 15 orangutans! Bring an eyemask and earplugs with you. Whilst the jungle might be outside whilst you're sleeping, that doesn't mean you won't hear it, and I have yet to visit a jungle lodge that has blackout curtains. If you want to avoid waking up before the early morning jungle walks, this is a must!

Let me know what you thought of this blog by contacting me on Twitter @CiarasCountry or by commenting below, and stay tuned for even more travel blogs coming soon! Was my description of Borneo what you would have expected, or have you had a different experience - I'd love to know, so please do get in touch!