Concert Review: HARRY STYLES, Eventim Apollo, London

*Scroll down for my photo gallery from the concert!*

I arrive at the Eventim Apollo shortly after doors open for Harry Styles' first UK tour stop, and have never seen such a long queue for a concert as this one - it stretches all the way back to Hammersmith Bridge. It almost looks like the queue holds far more concert-goers than will fit in the venue, and this is after some have already gone in. I take my place and thankfully the queue moves swiftly so it isn't too long before we make our way to the front of the venue. As we snake our way through the metal barriers, I step over more and more discarded duvets, pillows and blankets, making it clear that many fans had been camping here to get front row spots.

Making my way into the venue, I saw how they were managing to fit so many fans inside - the entire stalls section had been converted to standing, and was packed to the gills. I found it amusing how this was marketed as 'an intimate gig' when in fact there were clearly thousands of us here. Always being one to try and avoid getting crushed in pits, I had opted for a seat up in the Circle, which again was very full, even with standing room right at the back. Taking a look around, it was interesting to see that the audience (predominantly female, unsurprisingly) seemed older than the One Direction fans I'd expected - most were school leaver or university age, and very few parental chaperones to be seen - suggesting that Harry's audience had matured along with his sound.

At 8pm, the opening act Muna took to the stage. I'd never heard of them before so had no idea what to expect, and admittedly had a bone of contention to the fact that Harry's opening act in the States was Kacey Musgraves, who remains one of my favourite artists and who I would have loved to see. Muna turned out to be a trio of women who took to the stage in business suits, which worked well with the minimalist set of just two small screens bearing the band name and a crescent moon outline.

They began with a chart-like pop number Loudspeaker, complete with syncronised jumping up and down from the band. The crowd seemed very responsive with a number singing along wholeheartedly to songs like Everything, about being obsessed with someone, and a cover of Stevie Nicks' (whom they described as one of the greatest musicians of all time) Edge of Seventeen. They finished up with a high-tempo dance track I Know A Place which certainly allowed those in the Circle to get their dancing shoes on - although I'm not sure there was much room down below...

I wish I could give you a proper review of the opening act, but the sound quality in the venue was atrocious, at least for the beginning, with the instrumentals completely drowning out any vocals. As a result, I couldn't even catch lyrics to jot down and find out songs later. However, they were interesting to watch and certainly seemed to be feeling themselves with lots of interpretive dancing, and in sync headbanging.

Then for the main event. I had booked my ticket to see Styles before his album was released, having only heard Sign of the Times but expecting big things nonetheless. Admittedly, his new style wouldn't be 100% my cup of tea, but I was sure I was in for an entertaining night nonetheless and I am positive that many in the audience would leave feeling as if they'd had the best night of their lives - what more can you ask for?

After Muna left the stage, the screaming was almost continuous and the excitement clearly palpable. Cheers erupted as a large pink silk screen floated down to cover the stage as the set was changed - this was undoubtedly a case of fandemonium, as evidenced by someone in the pit collapsing just ten minutes before Styles took to the stage, needing to be hauled out and whisked away for medical attention. I couldn't help but feel sorry - no doubt she'd been one of the ones camping outside, only to be taken away minutes before her idol came on stage.

The screams increased in decibels (if possible) as a harmonised 'Tell me something I don't already know' played out of the speakers, closely followed by a silhouette of Styles on stage, which resulted in a collective surge in the pit - again, very glad to have been upstairs in my own seat! The curtain fell and Harry was revealed centre stage, impeccably dressed in a sky blue designer suit. As he began Ever Since New York I couldn't help but be impressed by the crowd screaming every word along with him. I'd wondered at the beginning whether they really loved his music as opposed to just him, but this seemed to answer my question.

The atmosphere certainly made it feel like more of a stadium tour than an intimate gig, and in spite of all of the concerts I've been to, I can honestly say I've rarely, if ever, seen a crowd quite like this one. Harry moved on to sing Two Ghosts, a song which I think was able to highlight the difference between not only now and his pop days, but also between his solo route and those of his ex-bandmates. This is far more glam-rock than pop and an interesting change of direction for someone who could just have easily made a mega-successful bubblegum pop album.

Styles shifts from rocky numbers like Carolina to strong ballad-like songs such as Sweet Creature, bathed in a soft purple light. Like Muna's set, this too is minimalist, and only changes when he requests to 'take it up a notch' to sing Only Angel surrounding by flashing lights in the background. He certainly has stage presence, strutting up and down the stage and dancing a bit now and then, as well as engaging well with the crowd, picking on a few fans in the front to chat to them, which helped me find out that some had been camping out since Tuesday - that's five nights of sleeping on the street to see a concert. I mean, I'll occasionally get to gigs a few hours early if I'm keen to queue, but this is next level. Harry must be proud of his fans dedication.

A lots of the lyrics in his songs are fairly repetitive such as in Woman and allow themselves to be easily sung, even if you don't know them word for word (which I'm sure was not the case for the vast majority). As well as playing most of the songs from his own self-titled album, he also treats us to a song he wrote for another artist in the form of Ariana Grande's Just A Little Bit Of Your Heart, which I didn't know he'd written but was all the more impressed by, and of course some One Direction songs such as Stockholm Syndrome and What Makes You Beautiful, but in a style so different from their original versions that you could be fooled into thinking they were completely new songs.

However, throughout this section, Styles paused a few times as yet more girls have to be hauled out of the pit, dealing with dehydration or trampling I would imagine. Nonetheless, he deals very well with this, stopping the set, asking for the houselights to be brought up and asking everyone to give the injured room until it is sorted. His motto is very much about treating each other with kindness and I was pleased to see that he too practiced what he preached.

The next song was undoubtedly the most well-received - Kiwi, whose lyrics scream "I think she said 'I'm having your baby, it's none of your business!' I wonder if he wrote this song too, and whether it is based on personal experience - definitely a big change of content from his boy band days. I enjoy listening to his distinctive voice, but think he could just have easily told the crowd the name of each song and let them sing the entire song, and have resulted in the same endgame of an entertaining night.

The main set ends here (cue more girls being pulled out of the pit - it's getting worrying) but Styles returns shortly after to sing From the Dining Table, a song with enjoyable lyrics like 'Even my phone misses your call'. He follows this up with a cover of Fleetwood Mac's Break The Chain which is always well covered by artists, and I enjoy seeing how different artists put their own spins on it - from Little Big Town (who Harry has also done a cover of) to Styles himself.

There's little guessing as to what songs he should finish his set off with as the crowd chants 'Kiwi, Kiwi, Kiwi' to which he obliges, in spite of having already played it once. I found this interesting in the fact that so many wanted to hear it again as opposed to a different song - Styles fans, help me out here? The set officially ends with the crowd pleasing Sign of the Times to which all of the phone lights in the audience are lifted up. Harry bows, leaves the stage, comes back to blow more kisses, and leaves again as the band continue with the final chords. The end of the gig is like a collective sigh of thousands of girls telling each other 'wasn't that amazing?'

Ultimately, I feel privileged to have shared that night with such a dedicated fanbase, and to see an artist who is far from the end of his solo journey. Few will have the same influence on a generation, or at least part of it, as Harry Styles will. Watch this space.

Did you enjoy my review of Harry Styles' intimate gig? I'd love to hear your thoughts on Twitter @CiarasCountry, where you can also share your experiences of the concert if you were there too! There's lots more where this came from, so stay tuned for further reviews and interviews from fantastic artists coming soon! 

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TRAVEL: Santiago, Chile - walking, winter and warm desserts

August in Santiago, Chile is deepest, darkest winter, and it does feel like it, especially for someone who had spent the last few weeks in countries warmer than her natural habitat. Here, it's like England in December - something I'd hoped I wouldn't have to come into contact with for another few months! 

We were given the chance to warm up at our hotel - French boutique Le Reve, which had certainly gone all out to present itself as French including playing French versions of popular songs in the lounge. Arriving in late, we were in time for the midnight snack, a selection of biscuits, coffee and orange juice served in the hotel's small kitchen. My favourite thing about this hotel were the duvet covers - some of the softest I'd ever slept in. I would've been tempted to buy a set myself had I had space in my hold luggage. A past guest had gotten me excited by writing in the guest book how lovely breakfast was, but they must've had a different selection to us - just standard continental. 

We only had a day in Santiago but planned to make the most of it. In order to do so, we jumped on the Metro (an easy transport system to navigate and cheaper than taxis) to Plaza de Armas, Santiago's main square. It's impressive that some of the historical buildings in this square are still standing given the country's history of large scale earthquakes and fires. Perhaps most impressive is the Cathedral, which at the time we arrived had two masses running consecutively. Clearly this is what Chileans do with their Sunday mornings! 

At 10am, we met up with a free walking tour outside the Cathedral we've found online. Running tours at 10 and 3pm everyday, they're easy enough to spot with their red uniforms. Each timeslot has two tours running in Spanish and English - ours was with 25 year old student Valentina whose passion for sharing the city's history shone through throughout the tour. 

We began in the Plaza seeing the Cathedral, City Hall, and Post Office - all impressive buildings dating back to the colonial period (barring redevelopment following fires and earthquakes). This was followed by more impressive buildings in the form of the Pre-Columbine Art Museum - free to visitors on the first Sunday of each month - and the Old Congress Building. 

The most interesting building, and the only one I remember from previous trips to Santiago, was the Palacio La Moneda, the huge white presidential palace. The walking tour planned their timing well as we arrived just before 11am when they undertake the changing of the guards. This is nothing like the changing of the guards at Buckingham Palace or Horseguards Parade but much more of a ceremony, and for that reason there were hundreds of people crowded around outside by the time we arrived. Shortly after, a fanfare began from down the road, and soldiers on horseback and on foot, accompanied by a military band progressed up the road and into the space in front of the Palacio. Lots of military calls later, some more music, and some strange horse-patting later and the guards were changed. A pretty cool event. 

We continued past the Stock Exchange, New York Street where Santiago's first skyscraper was built, and the Opera House, which had undergone a fire, earthquake, fire, earthquake and fire since it opened if I'm not mistaken. Valentina said now the population was just waiting for another earthquake to come along to change the record again. Fear not though, whilst earthquakes are not uncommon in Chile, the buildings in Santiago have been built to withstand Richter scale 10 earthquakes, so you should be okay if you're there when one occurs! 

We passed by the man made Santa Lucia Hill before entering the Lastarria neighbourhood, an upmarket area of retail and food. At this point, we were given a half hour break at Mulato restaurant, where Free Tour guests were given a special discounted menu. We opted for an empanada pino and a delicious churro basket filled with dulce de leche. A nutritious lunch I'm sure. 

We continued to the Parque Forestal, Santiago's answer to Central Park which was a lovely place to wander through and filled with dogs enjoying the slowly emerging sunshine. Valentina pointed out to us the various fountains and statues which had been gifted to the city on the 100th anniversary of Chile's independence, including a spectacular fountain from Germany. 

Italy Square followed, where Chileans gather together to celebrate the wins of their beloved football team (or mourn their losses) and to protest as the space in front of the Palacio de Moneda, ironically named Citizen's Square, has been closed off following a protester setting himself on fire (don't worry, he jumped in the fountain shortly after and yet failed to resolve the issue he was fighting for).

We moved into the Bellavista Neighbourhood, the gastronomic and artistic district  including a stop in a large covered square which had just about every type of cuisine imaginable. Here, Valentina advised us of her 'picas' (Spanish for recommendations) including a round dish filled with meat and vegetables and covered with corn, French fries topped with whatever the establishment felt like, Earthquakes (white wine and pineapple juice - any more than 2 will have you on the floor - and Chile's favourite drink, Pisco Sour. Sadly we were only in the city for the day, but had we had more time I would've been tempted to try some of them. 

The tour ended at Casa Pablo Neruda, the house where the famous poet lived with his third wife and was designed to resemble a ship to represent his love of the sea. All in all, the tour lasted 4 hours and technically costing nothing (although the company does rely completely on tips) this was an excellent way to spend the day. 

Our end point was just in front of San Cristobal Hill, on the summit of which resides a sanctuary dedicated to the Immaculate Conception with a 22 metre statue of the Blessed Virgin Mary, one of Santiago's key attractions. Unfortunately, there isn't an easy route to walk up the hill meaning that you have to take a funicular up which at the time we visited had a mile long queue. We decided to skip it given a lack of time, but if you get there earlier you might have a better chance of missing the crowds. 

We walked back to the hotel along Pio Nono, a busy and bustling street where everything seemed to be happening - a vast change from wandering around the streets almost alone earlier that morning. A number of street sellers lined the sidewalks selling kids toys, jewellery, and most interestingly, copper roses with copper being one of Chile's most prized metals. At only 2000 pesos, about $2, each they seemed a steal and something quite different from your usual souvenir. 

It was nice to walk the streets of Santiago as the sun slowly began to warm us up. It's a clean and modern city with what looked like very pleasant places to eat, drink and sleep. Not only that, but Santiago is a gateway city to other parts of Chile such as the Atacama Desert which should absolutely be on your list if you visit this part of the world. 

My recommendations for Chile: based on my short time there, I can't recommend the free walking tour enough. Sure, you could do it yourself, but would you learn as much about the city as you would from someone local? Absolutely not. Plus, you decide how much you want to pay based on what you think the value of the tour was. A win win situation! Don't leave the city without sampling some of it's cuisine. Whilst every kind of international cuisine can be found at your fingertips, Santiago really is a foodie heaven and has some delicious delicacies of its own - anywhere you go is bound to be good.

If you liked this blog post, make sure to follow me on Twitter @CiarasCountry - there's even more blogs like this coming soon, and you can check out my past portfolio elsewhere on the blog! Keep in touch in the comments to let me know where you like to travel, and what traveller's tips I'm missing!

TRAVEL: Easter Island - monuments, mystery and magnificient Maoi

There is only one flight per week from Tahiti to Easter Island, and it leaves at 3:20am on a Tuesday morning. Great. 5 hours later and you'll arrive in the world's most remote airport, and one that was extended in the 1980s as an emergency landing point for the Space Shuttle, or so I've heard. First impressions of Easter Island is that it's a lot like Ireland - rolling hills, lots of greenery, and wet and windy. I feel right at home. And let me not kid you, it's very windy - like trees blowing this and that way, large waves rolling into shore, dirt flying into your eyes kind of windy.

We were met at the airport by our guide for the week, Sabrina, and her 4x4. After a quick tour around the main town (of which there is only one) we were taken to our hotel, the Hare Noi, one of the more out of town hotels and yet it's only 3 minutes from the airport. The hotel fits in nicely with the landscape, with shared villas set into the side of the hills, but it's a small hotel with probably only around 10 rooms. 

After settling in, we headed out into the windswept landscape. One surprising element of Easter Island is the proliferation of dogs, who you see more often than people. Almost immediately after leaving the hotel, I made eye contact with a dog across the road who then decided she was mine, and would accompany me on the walk. And she did - all the way into town which was about an hour's walk on the route we took. As much as I loved the company, I worried she wouldn't be able to find her way home, but dog's here are pretty streetwise. Plus, the island isn't too populous with only around 7,500 residents so not too many ways to get lost. 

The walk first veered around to the town's Catholic church, with most residents being Catholic. The church had been said to have a look due to the interesting wooden carvings inside, of which there were about 8 depicting, in sometimes quite abstract ways, various elements of the Catholic faith such as Jesus and the Holy Spirit. My dog politely waited outside until we were done. 

It wasn't far to walk until we reached the coast - the airport stretches from one coast to the other - where the wind certainly showed its force, nearly knocking me off my feet a few times. We stopped for coffee at Mikafe, the homemade ice cream of which I can heartily recommend, even if the weather isn't always up for it. The cakes are lovely too, so put this on your 'must go' list if you visit. 

The day after you arrive is often planned for full day excursions, so at 9:30 we got in the jeep and began our drive. The further away from the town we went, the more desolate the landscape became, eventually becoming just plains of yellowing grass and rocks. Sabrina had planned the day to be in somewhat chronological order so our first stop was Akahanga where some of the oldest of the famous Easter Island statues can be found. After centuries of weathering and erosion, these statues are now little more than large rocks along the coastline. Still, their size and colour made it clear they weren't there naturally, in particular the red rock used for what we had assumed were 'hats' but are in fact used to represent hairstyles, or top knots. 

Our next location was Tongariki, a particularly impressive site as it has 15 statues laid out on one platform. Whilst they varied in shape, size, and condition, it was easy to see the details on most of them, including shaping of the eye sockets, noses, ears and chins. Whilst many visitors may think the statues represent Gods, they in fact represented important people in the community and used as a means of memorialising them when they died. 

Before lunch, we headed to Rano a Raraku, the quarry from which 95% of Easter Island's statues were carved. At the entrance was a diagram showing how the statue had evolved over time, from short and round with squat noses and slanted eyes, to tall and thin with long noses and deep eye sockets. This is one of the ways in which statues on the island, of which over 900 have been found, can be dated. 

The quarry is a mysterious graveyard for over 200 of these statues, abandoned for reasons unknown to us due to a loss in oral history when many of the island's residents were taken as slaves in previous centuries. However, excavations have revealed a few secrets about the statues. For instance, statues were carved in the rock face itself as opposed to from stone blocks taken out and then carved. Workers would carve one side of the statue, lying down, create a sort of tunnel around to the back where they could do the same to the other side, remove the remaining rock binding the statue to the mother rock, and slide it carefully down the mountain, face up, with a rope around its neck. 

The statues would then land in trenches at the bottom of the quarry where further detail could be added to the facial features, neck and chin. Centuries have meant that these trenches, where many of the statues remain, have filled in, so we can only see the shoulders and heads of the statues when in fact statues go down to the navel and include hands too. The statues at the quarry are in varying states of completion, some down in the trenches ready for transportation, some missing the facial features added at the end, and some still half in the rock, left just as they were carved. It's also home to the largest statue found, at 22m, which made it out of the rock face but not out of the quarry. 

The quarry also raises a number of questions about the transportation of the statues, as they span much of the island, and even beyond, with the furthest statue found 1.4km off the coast of the island, meaning it would have to have been transported first miles to the coast and then somehow, off the island. Many theories have been suggested, including using log rollers to move them, sliding on sleds, aliens, and the most influential being that the statues 'walked' with ropes pulled from one side and then the other meaning that they would shuffle forward somewhat like a penguin. 

A further interesting discovery at the quarry is that of the only known kneeling statue, strange because none of the others show legs. Apparently the European who discovered this statue shortly went mad afterwards, having nightmares about the statue berating him for exposing the statue's body to the wind. It's definitely a powerful statue, I'll tell you that. But who knows if there are others like it - barely any of Easter Island has been excavated, so hundreds more statues may lie beneath the surface. 

We headed onwards to Te Pito Kura, where the statue that Captain James Cook first saw when he reached Easter Island lies. In his time, it was standing as, we imagine, most of the other statues on the island were. However, it is common belief that in a period of turmoil between the Rapa Nui (the people of Easter Island, and also the name of the island in Rapa Nui language) the statues were pulled down, so all those now standing up have been restored since the 1960s. Te Pito Kura also has a large magnetic stone next to the platform, important as it is said to contain 'mana', or supernatural powers. 

Our final stop of the busy day was Anakena beach where according to oral history, is the place where the founding king of the Rapa Nui people, Hotu Matu'a, first set foot on the island. Here are 7 statues facing inland, and a white sand beach, uncommon due to the island's volcanic nature. We were given some free time here to swim - I say swim but the waves were so large it was more wave jumping than anything! An enjoyable end to an enjoyable day. 

Heading back into town, we stopped for coffee at Mikafe again (my recommendation for Easter Island coffee shop) and took a walk along the coastal road. Somewhere along the way we picked up a dog I named Marble due to the colour of its coat, who accompanied us on our walk. If you visit Easter Island, don't be alarmed if this happens to you - the dogs here are so, so lovely and just want some company! 

As the sun began to set, we raced to Haka Honu restaurant and grabbed a table with a sea view to watch the sun go down. The colours were incredible and there was nothing blocking your view of the endless sky ahead of us. Plus, the food was great - add this to your 'must do' list. 

The following day we headed in the opposite direction, first to the islands anthropological museum which provided further information about the Rapa Nui, their culture, and the statues, as well as housing one of the few female statues found. Next door was Tahai, home of three sets of statues. The first is a solo statue but interesting as it is the only statue with eyes. It is envisioned that many of the statues did have eyes which were rested in the eye sockets, but the restoration of those standing up was done slightly incorrectly with the statues standing perfectly straight, meaning that any eyes added would fall out. In the case of this statue, cement was used to secure the eyes. Whilst not authentic, the guides are happy with this addition as it is the only example that shows visitors what such statues would have looked like.

In the middle is another solo statue, and to its left, a platform holding 5 statues in various degrees of decay - a few missing half their faces and one almost completely gone. In fact, this platform has space for 6 statues, the last of which lies further up the hill broken in 4 pieces and making it very difficult to be restored. 

We then drove to Rano Kau, one of Easter Island's volcanoes. The island itself is formed of three volcanoes in a triangular shape which joined together to create the island. Rano Kau is the largest, and in its crater holds a body of water which has since turned into a wetland. One of the strangest craters I've ever seen given the luscious greenery that lies below. 

On the side of the volcano closest to the sea, we came to Orango village, important as it was used for only a few weeks a year by the Rapa Nui people to hold the Birdman festival. In this festival, a young man from each tribe, called a Hopa, was selected to represent his tribe in a series of competitions. The most important of these was for the man to climb down the side of the cliff and swim across the water to the furthest of three islands off the shore. Then, he and the other competitors would wait until the first egg of a specific bird was laid, and the first man to carry the egg back to the island - swimming with it attached to a band around his head - won. However, it was not him who got the glory, but the chief of his tribe, who then became the eponymous Birdman. This tradition lasted between after the statues were toppled to the arrival of Catholic missionaries who insisted the festival cease as it related to other gods.

After a walk along the coast and watching the sunset, we headed for dinner at a place Sabrina had recommended called Kanahau - another very nice restaurant I would add to your list. At 8:30, we headed next door to Ma'ara Nui, another restaurant, but not for more food. No, something more exciting - the Kari Kari show, basically a performance of Easter Island dance. It was brilliant - we all loved it. Still being part of Polynesia (the boundaries of which are New Zealand, Hawai'i and Easter Island) the dancing shared some similarities to Tahitian dances we'd seen, but differences too. I  enjoyed the beautiful costumes the dancers wore, and particularly their energy, moving faster than my camera could keep up with and singing loudly the whole time. A real highlight of our time here. 

It was then time for our final full day on the island, which we started by heading to Ahu a Kivi where 7 statues face out to the sea. This site is interesting exactly because of that, being the only location where statues face outwards. Legend has it that they represent the young explorers sent to explore the island before the arrival of the colonisers led by Hotu Matu'a, or that their gazes align with 7 islands out to sea which may offer clues to where the Rapu Nui people come from. Interestingly, they are astronomically oriented, and much like Stonehenge look straight to the sunset during equinoxes. 

We then headed to another quarry, this time Puna Pau, or the red stone quarry where the top knots were made. Again, much speculation lies around how these stones, which often weighed 8 tonnes, were added to the tops of statues. Whilst not much remains at this site, the top offers a view of the town and we were incredibly lucky to see a whale just off the coast - not a common occurrence in Easter Island. 

Our final stop was Vinapu which houses two interesting platforms. The first of which is unlike all others in its stonework with large blocks pushed together so tightly even a piece of paper would not fit between them. The second has one of the strangest statues - not only made of different stone, the red scoria of the top knots, but it is also female. Moreover, it had two heads, and was used as a funerary pillar where a frame was installed for drying dead bodies. 

We finished the day with some souvenir shopping at the artisan markets (can you really leave Easter Island without some statues of your own?), another coffee at Mikafe (accompanied by two turtles swimming in the harbour), and a final walk back to the hotel. Easter Island is full of mysteries, and that's what I love - it's the not knowing the truth about the statues that makes them more interesting in my eyes and for that reason I think they will always hold power and keep bringing people to this interesting island. 

My advice for Easter Island: you need to take your time here. We were here for 3 full days and even that isn't really enough. If you want to do it properly, take 5 days. I've done my best to recommend places to go and things to do and I thoroughly encourage you to check them out. The town itself is very small so anywhere you go is within walking distance. Make sure you see a show - that was a real highlight for me. And don't worry, it's not just a tourist experience as Sabrina told us the performances put on for us are exactly the same as they are for the natives. Personally, I wouldn't read too much information about Easter Island before you visit if you can avoid it. It's best to discover yourself, listen to the theories of the locals and the oral traditions passed down through their families, and enjoy the mystery of Rapa Nui!

I hope you enjoyed reading this blog as much as I enjoyed writing it! If you did, be sure to follow me on Twitter @CiarasCountry as there'll be plenty more where this came from! I'd love to hear your thoughts too, so feel free to leave a comment below and I'll get back to you as soon as possible!

Top Albums of 2017 (So Far!): Part 3

2017 seems to be flying by, and has been a year of great music from some new and old country faces (check out what albums I thought were worthy of the title of one of the best albums of the year here and here!) The last few months have brought even more fantastic albums – read on to find out which were my favourites! A special mention goes out to Midland’s debut album On The Rocks which definitely deserves a listen – their EP already made this years list!

Thomas Rhett – Life Changes

Why it made the list: For me, country music is all about telling stories through music, and most often this is best done autobiographically. This year, I think you’d struggle to find a more autobiographical album than Thomas Rhett’s Life Changes – look no further than the titular track to get a whistlestop tour of Rhett’s life from getting engaged at 22 to being surprised at the thought of having not one, but two, babies within the space of a few months. The whole album, in fact, is a whistlestop tour of Rhett’s versatility. In terms of content, they range from sweet love songs like the 1950s style Sweetheart to dealing with the knowledge that the one you love doesn’t love you in Marry Me. Whilst most of the songs have a poppy vibe to them, they’re far from the same – take the dubstep inspired Leave Right Now – this is an album that will keep you coming back for more.

Top Tracks: Marry Me, Unforgettable, When You Look Like That

Luke Combs – This One’s For You

Why it made the list: For something a bit more traditional, check out Luke Combs debut album. In an era driven by bro country (a type of music I have no problem with!), Combs brings something different back, as evident in his gruff tone and less pop-infused songs. Sure, there are some key elements of every country album that you can find on This One’s For You – the designated ‘put your lighters up’ track in the form of the title track, a good ole bit of satire in songs like When It Rains It Pours, and stadium anthem track Out There. There’s a lot of songs I like on here, and I enjoy when it comes onto my music shuffle as a nice break from country pop after country pop song. Luke Combs is not quite like Chris Young, Chris Stapleton or Jason Aldean, but if you’re looking for something in between all three, he’s your guy.

Top Tracks: Lonely One, Hurricane, One Number Away

Old Dominion – Happy Endings

Why it made the list: I think fans are always a bit apprehensive about their favourite bands sophomore albums, and I felt the same about Old Dominion particularly given how much I had enjoyed their last album Meat and Candy. Does Happy Endings live up to its predecessor? Well, no, but that’s because Meat and Candy was, in my opinion, so good it really couldn’t be topped. But don’t despair – this is still a great album and that’s why it deserves a place on this list. You’re bound to find a song you love – whether that’s the cutesy Shoe Shopping or the sultry Hotel Key or the fun Be With Me (You can be anything / Why don’t you be with me?). There’s a little something for everyone and every mood, so I like it a lot. Plus, it’s a very cool album cover, and that always wins extra points with me.

Top Tracks: Not Everything’s About You, So You Go, Still Writing Songs About You

Dustin Lynch – Current Mood

Why it made the list: Lynch’s latest album is same-same but different, in that it retains his rocky style that defined his previous albums and yet adds some new elements as if testing the waters to see if they work. Take Small Town Boy which wouldn’t sound out of place if sung by the likes of Sam Hunt or stripping it back to basics with Love Me or Leave Me Alone (featuring the fantastic Karen Fairchild of Little Big Town). This is a Saturday night type of album to get you hyped up for going out or staying in.

Top Tracks: Seein’ Red, Small Town Boy, State Lines

Do you agree with my list or are there some albums you think are missing from this years Top Albums of 2017 (So Far)? Let me know by commenting below, and make sure to follow me on Twitter @CiarasCountry to stay up to date with future additions to my Top Albums series, as well as reviews and interviews from your favourite artists!

TRAVEL: Tahiti - sunsets, shows and swimming with sharks

Visiting Tahiti is like heading back in time. Not because, like Cuba, a lack of imports has left parts of the country stuck in the 1950s, but because you literally travel back in time. Let me explain. Travelling from Australia you fly over the international date line, so you move from GMT+12hrs to GMT-12hrs and get to relive your day all over again. Slightly confusing when you leave on Thursday and arrive on Wednesday...

Although our flight only got into Tahiti Faa'a airport at 11pm, we still received a warm welcome, with Tahitian dancers and ukulele players ready to greet us off the plane. We were then immediately lei'd by our travel company associates before being ushered onto a bus to our hotel, the Manava, a fine hotel with a less-than-average breakfast. The most exciting thing was the fact that our breakfast server was called Moana. 

The following morning we were back on a different bus taking us to the ferry port in Papeete, where an hour's ferry ride brought us to Moorea, a small French Polynesian Island. Thankfully the weather was calm so it wasn't too painful, but I'd hate to be on the ferry in a tropical storm. 

Our hotel for the week was the Manava Pearl, with a special surprise in that we were staying in a 'Premium Overwater Bungalow with Ocean View' (as they call it) which essentially means our little hut is held up over water on stilts, and is the furthest away from the main part of the hotel with nothing in our view but the sea. Very nice, and under the coffee table in the room we had a small glass floor from which you can see fish swimming below you. 

Life moves slower here, although I can't see how some guests stay as long as they do because there's not too much to be done. My days have been spent predominantly in the water. First I tried snorkelling which has been incredible. On the side of our bungalow is a small dock from which you can directly enter the sea, and more importantly the coral. The coral isn't too deep, just below your feet, but it shortly slopes dramatically away into the abyss - with this in mind, my first few forays out were with a life jacket, but the water is so bouyant you can literally lie flat in the water without any fear of leaving the surface. 

The undersea life is incredible here due to the proliferation of the coral - thousands of different species of the most beautiful tropical fish of all colours. My favourites have been Angel fish, bright yellow ones, rainbow fish, orange and blue striped, and just the plain weird looking fish. I could go on and on, but really, this kind of thing needs to be seen for itself. You can easily entertain yourself for hours under the surface, and with no need to move either. The patch of coral outside our bungalow, whilst small, holds hundreds of fish species who flit in and out of the coral, constantly changing place with new ones swimming through every minute. It's magical. 

When you're done being under the water, you can be on it. The Manava has free access to one and two-person kayaks which give you the flexibility to travel as you please. As there's not much to be done on the island of Moorea, which has only one ring road around it's edges (which I do like as the centre of the island is relatively untouched) your best bet is to head out to sea, which is exactly what I did. Pushing off from the Manava beach, you sail past the over water bungalows, across the abyss - the scariest part as it's indeterminable how deep it goes down, way way out of eyesight anyway - before it becomes shallow again and you can cruise through corals and gaze down at the fish below the crystal clear surface. 

Continuing on about 700m away from the resort and you'll reach the reef. Watching waves break ahead of you whilst you're on the water is a strange experience, but a cool one nonetheless. Turning around and you get the most amazing view - tiny bungalows lining the shore, the light turquoise of the clear shallow water ahead of you and beyond that the darker blue of the deep water, the steep green mountainous regions in the centre of the islands, and palm trees dotted about everywhere you turn your head. I wish I had photos to share with you from this point of view, but even I don't trust my kayaking ability to the extent that I'd take my camera and all of the photos I've taken on it out to sea! This is a great way to pass the time though - just you, your kayak and the endless ocean before you. 

Given that they had them on offer, I also decided to try out a watersport I'd not engaged in before - paddleboarding. Whilst a newbie, when the water is calm there's not too much to worry about in the area of falling overboard (unless a rogue jetski or speedboat decides to stir up some waves for you) so I felt pretty comfortable paddling out to sea. Regardless, even if you do fall in, as previously mentioned the water is uber-bouyant and you won't get far. However, as I write this, the weather has taken a turn for the worse and the sea has become choppy, with scary-looking clouds heading in from the mountains. The perfect excuse to sit inside and blog. 

When not on the water, you do nothing, and that's exactly the point. Chill on your sun loungers out the back of the bungalow, sip 2-for-1 cocktails in the bar and let the Tahitian sun warm your skin. We were probably a bit out of the ordinary in leaving the resort to check out the town, not that there's much of it. The most exciting part are the pearl shops, selling all kinds of Tahitian black pearls (presumably what the infamous pirate ship in Pirates of the Caribbean was named for). Prices do vary though, so shop around to find the size and colour you like the best. 

Aside from that, the resort offers all you could want from a French Polynesian island stay, or so it would seem. However, I have yet to think it offers you much of French Polynesia. Catering to the tourist, the resort is very French, right down to the French cuisine served in the restaurant. Our one excursion into Polynesian culture was a buffet and dance held at the resort. Whilst, being vegetarian, there wasn't anything on the menu for me, the fish is exotic and fresh. 

The dancing was also very interesting. First, four male dancers took to the stage, with an almost violent style of dancing similar to New Zealand's Maori Hakas - lots of 'di' sounds and loud noises! They were followed by four female dancers complete in coconut bras and grass skirts, whose style of dance was completely different - kind of a mix between hula and belly dancing. The two groups alternated dances, occasionally joining together so we could see how the two styles juxtaposed one another, but fitted neatly with each other. It was very loud, and a lot of fun! 

Towards the end, the dancers headed out into the audience, offering their hands to guests. I initially thought they were looking for tips until I realised they in fact wanted volunteers - discovered when one of the dancers stopped next to my chair and pulled me to my feet. I was led up to the stage, asked to sit on his knee while the female dancers danced with male guests, and then we took over. Again, a lot of fun but I'm sure I have a lot to improve on with my Polynesian dancing!

The weather that night was pretty rough and you could see the wind waving the palm trees in the same way you see on hurricane footage. Pretty scary when you're in a wooden house on stilts... The next day the weather was much the same, which was slightly disconcerting as that was when we had booked our boat excursion. Nonetheless, the Polynesians are clearly hardier than we are and the trip was set to go ahead. From the Manava dock, we got on a small boat with 30 other people and our guide, Christina. The tour took us initially to Cook's Bay, where we were told of a legend of a god who threw his spear into the mountain to create a hole which you can see from certain angles. The geology of Moorea is strange, with the mountains and hills very pyramid shaped and pointy, not like anything I'd seen before. 

We also passed by Opunohu Bay where most of the larger ships dock due to its depth - even deeper than the abyss by our resort. We also had the chance to learn a bit about Tahitian culture for instance in how to tie their version of a sari and what the positioning of a flower behind someone's ear means - on the left means you're in a relationship, on the right means you're looking for someone, and on both sides means in a relationship but looking! 

We continued on our way, stopping at an island for a barbecue lunch. While it was cooking, we walked to the other side of the island for free time snorkelling in the crystal ocean. Initially, I thought there wasn't much to see beneath the waves until I found a coral collection where apparently all the fish hang out. It was incredible - about fifty pearl coloured fish swimming so close you could reach out and touch them, blue fish, turquoise fish, yellow fish, grey and red fish, black fish, little white fish scooting along the bottom and nibbling at my ankle bracelets. I wish I knew the names of some of these fish, but just know it was amazing. These are the times you wish you brought an underwater camera. I spent most of my time there until it was time to get out and we headed back to the other side to eat, take photos, and play with the friendly island dog. There was a lot of excitement too when we were visited by some stingrays, attracted to the motion of the water as we walked in it, who were more than friendly provided you avoided their tails. 

After a few hours, it was back on the boat - we were waved off by the dog who swam after us (doggy paddling in tropical waters is a sight to see) far further than I'm sure he should have! A short ride later, and we arrived at the main attraction - the shark and stingray feeding ground. I couldn't have got in quicker if I tried - this was a real bucket list item for me, and if I thought the fish earlier were cool, this might just have it beat. Submerging yourself beneath the water, and you're surrounded by ray's and black-tipped sharks. Actual sharks. Not something you do everyday, but we were told if you keep your hands out of the sharks mouths you should be fine! The stingrays were very friendly, coming right up to us. Strangely, they felt soft - like wet velvet. Who'd have thought? So that was a really good day.

The next day we were headed back to Tahiti so nothing much was planned, and time was spent mainly in the pool until check out and our drive to the ferry. The calm waters of Polynesia you see in photos had alluded us again and the ferry ride was intense. The boat would rise up over a wave and crash back down, complete with white wall of water which would come smashing against the window. I'd hate to see what the weather would have to be like to make them cancel a ferry trip. Whilst pretty terrifying, I found it a bit fun - kind of like a roller coaster ride. 

We were back at our initial Manava hotel for our final night in Polynesia. I must say, the part of Tahiti that we saw, I didn't like. Very built up and busy. Looking for something to do, we decided to take a walk up the road, but after twenty minutes of walking along what was basically a highway, full of loud cars and petrol fumes, I called it a day and headed back. Sitting by the pool, which had a brilliant view of Moorea, behind which the sun set, was a much more preferable end to the day. Our time in French Polynesia ended with a nice meal courtesy of Carrefour - cheaper than restaurant meals but still pretty expensive as most products are imported. This part of the world is pleasant - I'm sure I'll be back. 

Tips for Tahiti / French Polynesia: based on my experience, I strongly recommend that you leave mainland Tahiti for some of the smaller islands around. I'd never heard of Moorea before but it was a lovely place to spend some time. Another popular option is Bora Bora, and many tourists choose to do both as they offer quite different experiences - Moorea offering island life, and Bora Bora as a coral atoll. If you're up for it, leave the resort. It can be all to easy to spend your whole time in one place, particularly if you're on half-board like we were with no need to head out for restaurants, but resort life can give you a very one-sided view of the place. Plus, you'll find things are cheaper once you leave the resort. Finally, prepare to snorkel, swim or dive. There's a whole other world beneath the surface that really shouldn't be missed!

I hope you enjoyed reading about my adventures in Tahiti! If you want to read more about my travels, stay up to date by following me on Twitter @CiarasCountry to be the first to know when something new is posted and feel free to leave me a comment letting me know what you think!